Entries by tlanzano

Northwest Streak

The Third Flatiron is historic, scenic and maybe the most versatile crag in the Boulder area.  The formation is home to many classics spanning all styles of climbing.  There are East Face  scrambles, there are sport routes, hard and easy trad and mixed routes, and even world class bouldering (The Ghetto).  This proposed line is […]

Skin Flute

Seal Rock is home to some classic east face routes, as well as a couple routes on the North face (Sea of Joy 5.13a and Archaeopteryx 5.11X).  This route is on the South Face, which already has 2 bolt lines: Choose Life 5.13d and Thunder Muscle 5.14a.  There are also a few trad/headpoint routes that […]

OSMP Opens the Third Flatiron, Matron and other formations. Mickey Mouse remains closed through August 15th.

OSMP announced the following information about cliff-nesting raptor closures.  For more information, please see OSMP’s site here. The following area remains closed (past July 31) because OSMP monitoring indicates that peregrine falcon nestlings still remain in their nest on the Mickey Mouse Wall. Staff will continue to monitor the site and will lift the closure when monitoring indicates that the […]

Thank you OSMP and volunteers for a successful Flagstaff trail day!

The Flagstaff trail day was a big success, and thanks to OSMP and the volunteers for making this happen!  It’s very impressive to see what motivated volunteers and land managers can accomplish in just one day.  Some highlights include new fencing by Capstan and Cloud Shadow, new steps going down to Cloud Shadow from the road, closed and restored social […]

OSMP update on cliff nesting raptor closures

OSMP reports the following updates on cliff nesting raptor closures: The following areas (listed north to south) were reopened to visitors on May 15 as monitoring indicated raptors were not nesting at these sites.* The Box/Backporch The Wings Shadow Canyon (not including the Matron) The following areas (listed north to south) were reopened to visitors on […]

Serpentine Dreams

Serpentine Dreams (5.12b); FA: Steve Annecone, Bret Ruckman (2014): This is a sustained thin-face climb on the west end of the north face of the Matron. It has 13 lead bolts (plus a 1.25″ Cam—0.75 Camalot) to the existing rappel anchors atop the first pitch of the West Face climb. Climb a chimney to a high first bolt, […]

Hasta La Hueco

Hasta la Hueco (5.12d); FA: Bret Ruckman, Steve Annecone (2013): This route works up to and follows the striking, wildly hueco’d wall up the middle of the south face of the Maiden. Pitch 1 (trad) starts just right of a large juniper tree, directly below the “Stone Oven Belay” (top of 1st pitch of the South Face […]

Golden Goat

Golden Goat (5.11); FA: Bret Ruckman, Steve Annecone (2014): Golden Goat climbs up the steep, yellow and orange wall just right of Sweet and Innocent. It’s sustained 5.10 and 5.11- climbing on buckets for the most part, with a crux finish up top. Although there are some vertical bits, it overhangs about 5 degrees on average. 9 […]

Big Bruce

Big Bruce (5.12a); FA: Chris Beh, Bob Ratliff (2014): This is a long face and overhang climb uphill and left of Raging Bull, on the southwest face of The Goose. 10 protection bolts lead to double-bolt anchors. Sustained climb with a building pump leads to a high crux.

Hippopotamus

Hippopotamus (5.10d); FA: Paul Glover, Matt Samet, Kevin Riley, 2009: This is the short (50 feet; 5 bolts) climb on the ledge right of Sweet Niblitz. Stand high on the ledge, clip the first bolt, layback the big flake, then move into pumpy, juggy territory and up into the black scoop to finish. Anchors are […]