Entries by tlanzano

Thunder Muscle

Thunder Muscle (5.14-); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano (2013): Climb the first three bolts of Choose Life then, instead of going left, continue straight up the bulging rock above along tufa-like features, aiming for a “heart” hueco at midheight where you can rest. Multiple bouldery cruxes define the line, which steps right when the tufa ends to a scooped ramp then […]

Choose Life

Choose Life (5.13+); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Paul Glover, 2012 (toprope: 2002): This is a 30-meter pitch midway along the south face of Seal Rock, and climbs an obvious wide black streak up a consistently overhanging wall past 13 bolts to a double-bolt anchor over the final bulge, on the slab. Long/extendo draws are useful […]

Ouroboros

Ouroboros (5.12d); FA: Chandler Van Schaack (2014): This is a 40-meter pitch one route to the right of Snakewatching, on the west face of Overhang Rock. The climb has 18 lead bolts plus two two-bolt anchors; 70-meter rope is MANDATORY and KNOT THE END! P1 is 60 feet long and goes at 5.12a, while linking P1 and P2 is 5.13a […]

Honey Badger

Honey Badger (5.13a); FA: Ben Sachs, Chandler Van Schaack (2013): This is a 40-meter pitch two routes to the right of Snakewatching, on the west face of Overhang Rock. 14 lead bolts + two sets of double-bolt anchors; 70-meter rope is MANDATORY, and KNOT THE END! The route can be done in one or two pitches.  P1: […]

Triceratops Tracks

Triceratops Tracks (5.10+); This is the rightmost of the three bolted lines on the overhanging, west-facing hueco’ed fin of rock on the west-southwest side of the Dinosaur Rock formation. To get here, hike up into the notch below the west side of Dinosaur Rock, then pick your way down the  gully that leads south into Bear Canyon; […]

Big Bob Cranks

Big Bob Cranks (5.9+): This is the middle of the three bolted lines on the overhanging, west-facing hueco’ed fin of rock on the west-southwest side of the Dinosaur Rock formation. To get here, hike up into the notch below the west side of Dinosaur Rock, then pick your way down the  gully that leads south into Bear […]

Tracks Are for Kids

Tracks Are for Kids (5.10): FA: as a toprope, unknown; as a lead, Steve Annecone: Tracks Are for Kids is the left of the three bolted lines on the overhanging, west-facing hueco’ed fin of rock on the west-southwest side of the Dinosaur Rock formation. To get here, hike up into the notch below the west side of […]

Pink Man’s Burden

Pink Man’s Burden (5.11+; two pitches); FA: Paul Glover, Matt Samet, spring 2010: This is a two pitch sport line on the southwest side of Dinosaur Rock. Scramble around the eastern toe of Dinosaur Rock then head along its south face, to a good ledge on the far left side of the face. Move up […]

Ultrasaurus

Ultrasaurus (aka Über-Pwnage (5.13a); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, 2009: This is the rightmost sport climb on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, right above the Mallory Cave trail. Begin as for Milk Bone, clipping its first two bolts to get onto the mid-wall ledge (unclip the first bolt once you’re into the second). Now […]

Milk Bone

Milk Bone (5.13a); FA: Matt Samet, Chris Weidner, 2009: This is the third from the left of the four sport climbs on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, right above the Mallory Cave trail. Follow 11 bolts up a sustained, gently overhanging tufa-like feature and then step left to anchors at the lip of the […]