Entries by tlanzano

Patience Face

Patience Face (5.12a); FA: Paul Glover, Matt Samet (first lead: Derek Peavey) 2012: This is the third from the left of the five sport climbs on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, down off the switchbacks along the Mallory Cave trail. It shares the first five bolts with The Shaft before stepping right onto the wide […]

The Shaft

The Shaft (5.12b); FA: Paul Glover, Matt Samet, 2010: This is the second from the left of the five sport climbs on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, down off the switchbacks along the Mallory Cave trail. Ten bolts take you to double-bolt anchors at the lip: sixty-meter rope MANDATORY. Begin below the big down-pointing flake, […]

Pretty in Pinkler

Pretty in Pinkler (5.11d); FA: Matt Samet, Paul Glover, 2011: This is the leftmost sport climb on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, down off the switchbacks along the Mallory Cave trail. Eight bolts take you to double-bolt anchors at the top of a little semi-detached spire. Begin by climbing onto a block at the base […]

Paradise Lost

Paradise Lost (5.9); FA: Kyle Lefkoff, Tim Snipes, Strappo Hughes, 2006: This is the rightmost of two quality sport climbs on the south face of the Red Devil. Begin at the switchback staging area along the climber’s-access trail to The Box, Back Porch, etc. Follow nine bolts up a steep, featured face with cruxes coming […]

Hell Freezes Over

Hell Freezes Over (pitch one: 10a; pitch two: 12a); FA: Chris Archer, Sarah Spaulding, Alan Higham, Nick Archer, 2004: This is the leftmost of two quality sport climbs on the south face of the Red Devil. Begin at the obvious switchback staging area below the first pitch, along the climber’s-access trail to The Box, Back Porch, […]

Cardboard Cowboy

Cardboard Cowboy (5.11c): A new final bolt was added to this existing climb (FA: Paul Glover, 1987) in autumn 2010, doing away with a 20-foot runout to the anchor and bringing the total bolt count to five.

The Horn

•The Horn (5.13d); FA: Jonathan Siegrist: This six-bolt climb, on the northwest arete/prow of Der Freischutz, was installed in 2009 and freed in spring 2010. It features steepening 5.11 and 5.12 climbing up to a wild, exposed, very difficult boulder-problem on the steepest part of the overhang.

Touch Monkey

Touch Monkey (5.11b): A new first bolt was added in 2012, doing away with a long runout off the ground to reach the former first bolt out in the roof.

Hot If You’re Not

Hot If You’re Not (5.11): This is the fifth bolted route from the left on the southwest face of Der Zerkle — the long hueco’ed wall facing the Mallory Cave. In 2012, the former first bolt, chopped at some point in the late 1980s, was reinstalled. It’s useful to stick-clip this bolt to protect the opening […]

Wing Ding

Wing Ding (5.10c): This is the fourth bolted route from the left on the southwest face of Der Zerkle — the long hueco’ed wall facing the Mallory Cave and also home to Hot if You’re Not, What if You’re Not, etc. Begin on a moderate flake feature down and right of What If You’re Not to get established up to […]