Blue Baboon

Route Name: Blue Baboon

Rock Formation: Devil’s Advocate

Number of bolts to be placed: Total of 16 bolts
Fourteen bolts plus two anchor bolts

Route Difficulty: 5.11

Proposed Route:

Proposed route,  Blue Baboon will go up the center of the South face, about 50 feet right of Purple Serpent, following an amazing line of “hueco” pockets that the Flatirons are known for.  The climbing starts lower angled and escalates in steepness and difficulty before reaching the anchor.  This route would serve as a nice warm-up for the harder lines here, but is also a worthy destination in itself. 

A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

The South Face of the Devil’s Advocate has 2 existing sport routes installed, Pink Hyena (AKA Tuck and Cover) the Purple Serpent. This proposed route is about 50 feet right of the existing sport climbs, and goes up the cleanest and tallest part of the South Face.  It is about 25 feet right of another proposed route, Velvet Tongue.

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  

Topographical view of the approach trail

The approach trail on the way from Mamoonius Boulder

Approach is from the South Fork of the Shanahan Ridge trail.  Head South on the Mesa trail.  Before the trail dips down into the Big Bluestem, head West through a meadow to find the climbers trail to the PB boulders.  Follow this trail West eventually turning South and up through a notch.  Follow this path South arriving below the NE ridge.  Continue around to the South Face.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the descent.):

Descent from the climb is to lower back to the staging area and hiking out on the same trail as the approach.   A 70 meter rope is recommended.

Staging area for proposed route

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area for this climb is the flattest and most sustainable area at the crag.  There are many flat areas on solid rock.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

All reconnaissance is complete.  Multiple people have top roped the route and can confirm the quality.

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

The route is not extremely overhanging and can be safely top roped.  It has been top roped cleanly at an estimated grade of 5.11.  There is little to no loose rock or cleaning needed.

Any additional notes:


6 replies
  1. Anthony Bubb
    Anthony Bubb says:

    The description says “It is about 25 feet right of another proposed route, Velvet Tongue.” But it is to the left, I think.
    Regardless, the line appears to be quite independent in terms of protection and belay locations. Hopefully these lines will be approved and take some of the traffic off of the back of Der Zerkle and the South side of The Seal.

    • Anthony Bubb
      Anthony Bubb says:

      Withdrawn, the comment about what side of V.T. this is. The image showing bolts for VT were misinterpreted as being this line.


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