Disaster Capitalism
Route Name: Disaster Capitalism
Rock Formation: The Finger Flatiron
Number of bolts to be placed: 10 lead bolts + 2 bolt anchor
Route Difficulty: 5.12a
Route Description:
This route starts on a ledge at the bottom of the middle of the South face of the Finger Flatiron. Scramble up to the left side of the slot/cave, clip a couple of bolts, and tackle the crux pulling through the apex of the roof on large, but very solid cobbles. The route then heads up a steep face and follows the weaknesses up the middle of the south face. It’s a fun line with lots of 5.10 and 5.11 climbing on mostly small face holds. The overall grade might be 5.11d or 12a. The pitch is about 80 feet long and 10 bolts are proposed to a 2-bolt rappel anchor.
The name, Disaster Capitalism, is referenced in the book “The Shock Doctrine”, and it relates to very disturbing practices by corporations that result in manipulating economies for the benefit of the elite, at the expense of the rest of society.
A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):
The south face of the Finger has only two existing routes. Starting on the far right side of the south face, Mere Wall (5.8) is a traditional line that follows a left-trending diagonal crack system. It heads up the south face for two pitches. The South Side of the Sky, a 5.11d sport climb, starts about 20 feet left of Mere Wall. It heads straight up for two pitches (5.11c, 5.11d) to the top of the south face. This proposed route starts about 30 feet left of South Side of the Sky, heading up the steep 3rdclass ramp for another 20-30 feet before clipping the first bolt. Another route named Sustainability Crisis was recently approved by OSMP, though will not be installed until after October 2024. It starts left of the proposed line, heads up and left, and continues left of this proposed line.
Approach gully leading to the South Face:
A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.
There are two possible approaches from NCAR, but the recommended approach is to start at the Mallory Cave trail and follow the trail to just before the cave. At a marked junction, take the climbers trail on the right, heading up past Red Devil and to the Box. As shown in the photo below, a small trail branches to the left from near the top of the main trail, and the west end of the Box. Follow this dirt trail south for about 30 yards past a roof/cave near the west side of the Finger Flatiron. Descend down to the south, encountering some talus/scree, along the West face of the Finger another 50 yards or so to a prominent gully. Head east up the gully over large talus and rocks and you arrive at a large rock ramp system that trends down to the bottom of the south face of the Finger. This descent along the south face is steepish 3rdor 4thclass scrambling.
Where the climbers trail leaves the Box trail:
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):
The descent will entail lowering or rappelling from the anchor at the top of the pitch. Climbers would then reverse the approach, returning down the Finger/Box/Red Devil trail to the Mallory Cave trail and back to NCAR.
Staging area:
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):
The staging area at the base is rocky and sandy with a little dirt and some trees. This area doesn’t seem to see much visitation due to the long approach, and it’s also fairly flat, so there is little or no visible erosion.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
Yes, the proposal has been climbed completely free on top rope. Some very light rock cleaning was completed though the rock is fairly competent and solid.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
Yes, the route has been top roped clean. There is little to no remaining loose rock. The rock is steep to vertical but not overhanging. As such, it was relatively easy to inspect and climb in its entirety.
Any additional notes:
The proposed route is fun, fairly sustained, and will add to the paucity of routes that exist there now (only two at this point), possibly making it a more sought out climbing destination than it is currently. The rock on this south face is very well-featured with many holds and possible lines. One other route (Sustainability Crisis) to the left of this proposal has been approved but not installed.
Yes, looks great!
Yes!
Sure