http://flatironsclimbing.org/wp-content/uploads/Flatirons-logo6.jpg 927 1503 tlanzano http://www.flatironsclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/ffc-logo.png tlanzano2016-09-18 14:09:372021-01-09 15:18:22Fat Elvis
Fat Elvis (5.9): FA, Mark Roth. With the routes Sex, Drugs, and Rock & Roll right here, it should be no surprise that Fat Elvis was lurking around the corner. The upper half also reminded me of Velvet Elvis, with a rising traverse above an overhang, only easier. Train for this one with a strict regimen of peanut butter, banana, and bacon sandwiches, and try not to die on the toilet until you climb this!
The first half chases 4 bolts up a clean and easy face to a ledge. This is a good place for a rest/nap (if low angle 5.7 is your limit). There is a great optional gear placement here if the next bolt seems scary to clip. Pretty much any big nut, tri-cam, or hex will fit.Clip a bolt and pull over the roof on the right. Traverse up and left to the rounded and exposed arête, past 3 more bolts. Lower angle rock and jugs lead up and right to an anchor on a slab. The anchor is a little far from the “lip”, so there is a bit of friction when lowering. It was placed there to keep the rope away from the tree on the ledge and also allow top roping of other variations to the right. It is also easy to reach this anchor from above in case you want to approach via an East Face Route instead of hiking around.
From the saddle between The Hand and Der Freischutz, step down to the West and walk down the gully to the South. Pass around the base of a giant boulder into a small alcove to discover the great staging area.
Protection: 8 bolts, 1 big nut (optional), and a 2 bolt anchor.