Route Name: Get Lanced
Rock Formation: Stonehenge
Number of bolts to be placed: Total of 12 bolts
Ten bolts plus two anchor bolts
Route Difficulty: 5.13
This route takes a striking, direct line up solid rock on the center of the steep overhang on the featured West face of Stonehenge. This is up the hill from the creek, to the left of The Sculpture and Auspice.
A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):
There are ten existing routes on Stonehenge (10) (sport + mixed + trad). Get Lanced will be between Stonehenge Mix Route and the Sculpture. Due to the unique shape of this feature, it is difficult to provide a diagram of the existing routes that would be helpful. Current Flatirons guidebooks don’t do it justice either. All routes are at least 10 feet apart, Get Lanced stands alone and isn’t close to any existing routes
Exploratory Surgery 5.6X Trad
Mountaineer’s Route 5.4 Trad
Measure for Measure 5.10b R Trad
Thought Control 5.10a R Sport
Old Man of Hoy 5.10c R Sport
Stonehenge Project ?? Abandoned, single ring bolt
Auspice 5.11d R Sport
Stonehenge Mix Route 5.12b Mixed
The Sculpture 5.11c TR
The Fiend 5.13c Mixed
A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the approach:
The approach to Stonehenge is well established.
Hike up the Bear Canyon Trail for about 30-45 minutes, passing the new Xcel power lines established just below Overhang rock. Continue on Bear Canyon Trail past the climber’s trail for Overhang Rock and just before the trail crosses the creek take an obvious right turn on a slab descent to approach Stonehenge. Cross the creek at some boulders and go slightly uphill to reach the base of the formation close to the Fiend. At this point walk down the hill to the alcove where Get Lanced is located. The surface at the base is very durable, primarily rock, with plenty of room to belay.
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):
The descent from the proposed route is to lower (or rappel) from the top and land back at the belay. Reversing the approach to return to the NCAR parking lot.
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):
Soil is compact and base is flat and rocky, ideal for belaying. Clean and clear. See image above with backpack for scale.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
Yes. Minor cleaning and multiple days of inspection and TR climbing has been done.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
The route has been top roped, minimal loose rock, it is about 30 degrees overhanging for 70% of the route.
Any additional notes:
This should be a great addition, with some fun technical vertical climbing at the bottom, followed by sustained steep and physical movement on good edges, with a powerful move guarding the anchors at the pinnacle of the formation. Difficulty will be in the 5.13 range.