God’s Kingdom on Earth

Recommended Route Name: God’s Kingdom on Earth

Rock Formation: Ridge One, Skunk Canyon

Number of bolts to be placed: 12-14 lead bolts + 2 bolt anchor + 1-2 fixed draws for cleaning.

Estimated Difficulty: 5.13-

 

 Route Description and intention of the name:

This new route climbs the overhanging right scoop on the west face of the summit tower at the top of Ridge One (Stairway to Heaven) in Skunk Canyon.  At the lip, the route will continue up the headwall and end on the vertical face below the top of the formation.  The route measures about 110’ with a suggested rating of 5.13- (which is an estimate, as the route can only be partially toproped at this time due to its overhanging nature). 

The name comes from keeping with the theme of the cliff, “Like Heaven” and the route “Stairway to Heaven” and “In God We Trust.”

 

A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

This section of Ridge One contains no other sport routes.  There is an existing trad route, Like Hell It Is 5.11, on the NW corner of the formation about 50’ to the left.  About 25’ right of this proposed line is a trad route called Sidereal 5.10x.  Sidereal traverses hard right as soon as leaving the ground and doesn’t come near this proposed route again.  Further right is a trad route named Seventh Inning Stretch 5.11d, then the route Boot Hill 5.8x.  There is one final trad route on this section of the ridge,  In God We Trust 5.10x. Right of this is a break in the Ridge separating this formation from the rest of the routes down hill.

 

 

 

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  

The approach starts at the NCAR trail head. Access the Mesa trail and head North. After crossing Skunk Creek head west on the climbing access trail at the blocked switchback.  The easiest access to this route is to follow the approach to Hillbilly Rock.  From the West side of Hillbilly Rock keep heading NW up the descent trail from Stairway to Heaven.  When you reach the North end of the formation, drop down the West side on a well established climbers trail until you reach the base.

 




 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the descent.):

Descent from the climb is to lower back to the staging area and hiking out on the same trail as the approach.  

Staging area for proposed route

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the route is comprised of rock as shown in the photo above.  There are limited amounts of vegetation. The rock at the base is mostly solid.

 

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Yes, this route has been inspected for rock quality, and suggested rating of 5.13a is a guess, as the route can only be partially toproped given its overhanging angle and the proximity of large trees behind the wall.

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes, the upper less steep section has been top-roped and on the lower steep section sufficient holds have been observed.  The first 20’ has some loose flakes that will need to be cleaned, but after that the rock quality is consistently solid.

Any additional notes:

none

18 replies
  1. Mark Eller
    Mark Eller says:

    Long, steep and varied — what’s not to like? I look forward to heckling the route applicants as they attempt to complete this new line.

    Reply

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