Gossie

Route Name: Gossie

Rock Formation: The Northern Goose Egg

Number of bolts to be placed:  7 lead bolts, 2 bolt anchor


Route Difficulty: 5.11 

 

 

 Route Description:

On the right side of the South face is a steep arête.  This climb starts about 10 feet left of this and follows steep featured rock to a small ledge.  From here to the anchor you will follow a black streak with fun technical moves. The difficulty is approximately 5.11a. (There are a few other potential routes on this wall from 5.9 to 5.11.  If a few of these are also installed in the future, this could become a destination for climbers seeking moderate sport climbs).

The name is from the children’s books about Gossie & Gertie, two little goslings.  Hopefully in the future the climb Gertie, which goes up the arête, can be installed to the right reuniting the pair.

 

 

A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

There are no documented routes on this face.  About 5 different routes have been top roped by various parties.  The East Face of this Egg has a trad/scrambling route.  There is one old sport climb in the CMC alcove called Rules and Regulations 5.11.  The South Goose Egg has the routes Rude Welcome 5.11 (bolts), Power Bacon 5.10 (bolts), Fruity Pebbles 5.9 (bolts) and The Sea and Mirror 5.10 (bolts).  Each egg also has easy East face trad routes.  There will also be the newly approved Eggistential Crisis 5.12 installed after the raptor season.

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  

Approach from the Fern Canyon trail.  There is a climber trail leading to the existing routes on the S. side of the Southern Goose Egg.  Leave the Fern trail here, but keep right skirting in front of the rocks.  Head North for two hundred yards, then turn left and head up broken slabs into a corridor beneath the Northern Goose Egg.  

 

 

 



The cut off from the Fern Canyon Trail

 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the descent.):

Descent from the climb is to lower back to the staging area and reverse the same trail as the approach.  

 

Staging area:

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is  comprised of flat stable soil and rock.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

All reconnaissance is complete. 

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has been top roped extensively to find the best line.

 

Any additional notes:

none

10 replies
  1. Chris Beh
    Chris Beh says:

    This is a worthwhile route. I top roped 5 different lines on this wall a few years ago. This is one of the better ones. The Northern Goose Egg is fun and when there are more routes will be one of the better moderate crags in the Flatirons.

    Reply
  2. Japhy Dhungana
    Japhy Dhungana says:

    Yes! An excellent moderate addition to the Flatirons. We need more adventurous 5.11’s in the area.

    Reply
  3. George Bracksieck
    George Bracksieck says:

    Good cam placements appear to exist close to the first and second bolts. If those cams can indeed substitute for the first two bolts, the application should be changed to reflect that reality. If so changed, I would vote yes.

    Reply

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