Hasta la Hueco (5.12d); FA: Bret Ruckman, Steve Annecone (2013): This route works up to and follows the striking, wildly hueco’d wall up the middle of the south face of the Maiden. Pitch 1 (trad) starts just right of a large juniper tree, directly below the “Stone Oven Belay” (top of 1st pitch of the South Face route). Look for the juggy holds over a small roof and start there. Pull the roof low, step up right onto a slab, and work up to a ramp, following it up left and then straight up to a red/chocolate roof, moving right over airy ground to the belay ledge (5.9 or 10-). The second pitch is the business and fires up the continuously overhung, bullet-proof, patina’d wall. The first 5 bolts travel through juggy 5.10+ or 11- terrain to a stance just past the 5th bolt. From there, power up sustained 5.12 moves to a break above the 8th bolt, then finish it up to the top via one more cruxy section. Only a very light rack is needed for the first pitch, from small nuts/RPs to a #2 Camalot. Bring 4 or 5 long slings to minimize drag. For the second pitch, 9 bolts lead to a 2-bolt anchor. There’s also an optional old pin to clip a few feet above the belay if desired.
http://flatironsclimbing.org/wp-content/uploads/hueco-high-res-1.jpg 1600 1034 tlanzano http://www.flatironsclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/ffc-logo.png tlanzano2015-05-30 10:16:022015-06-14 18:42:19Hasta La Hueco