Route Name: Hoodang Hoedown
Rock Formation: Hillbilly Rock
Number of bolts to be placed: 7-8 bolts + 2 bolt anchor
Route Difficulty: 5.13+
The proposed climb (5.13+) tackles an estimated five bolts’ worth of fully independent climbing on the thin face between West Face (5.12c) and West Face Right (5.12a) on Hillbilly Rock. It climbs over a difficult bulge at the bottom (~V9/10) onto the face, where thin climbing (5.12/12+) on crimp holds leads to a shared anchor with West Face. It will then proceed out the big roof (~5.12) and up the left-trending corner system above West Face, past two or three more bolts, to anchors at the base of the overhanging panel at the top of the wall, slightly left of an arete feature to minimize rope drag. This will also allow West Face to be done as a longer climb, likely at 5.12d or 5.13a, though the lower anchor should still stay in, for those who only wish to do the original West Face, and also to help with cleaning quickdraws. The name plays off hillbilly themes like “hoodang” and “hoedown,” both of which refer to dance parties.
The route name is in keeping with the Hillbilly theme of the formation.
A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):
From left to right, the existing routes are: • Horsefly Hootenany (5.12d), bolted, sport •Uncle Dad (5.13a), bolted, sport–shared start with Horsefly • Call Me Daddy (5.14a), bolted, sport–linkup starting on Nephson and finishing on Uncle Dad • Nephson (5.13d), bolted, sport • Joe Exotic (5.14b), bolted, sport • Tiger King (5.13b), bolted, sport–shares the exit with Joe Exotic • West Face (5.12c), bolted, sport • Hillbilly Warmup (5.11d), bolted, sport • West Face Right (5.12a), bolted, mixed (needs two or three cam placements at the bottom) Other than some routes that share terrain, all of these climbs are typically 10 feet apart.
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):
The descent route is via lowering back to the staging area below the wall, onto a durable rock-and-soil surface
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):
The staging area is a rock ledge with compacted soil below it.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
We have worked the lower face, to the West Face anchors, on toprope, and done each move in isolation. And have inspected the roof, above the West Face anchors, and corner above extensively on a rope from the neighboring climb Tiger King.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
The lower face has been toproped. The route has a small roof down low and a big one above but is otherwise mostly vertical or gently overhanging. It has some small loose flakes that broke while we were climbing on it and a bit of loose stuff above the upper roof that will need to be cleaned, but is otherwise on very solid, varnished rock.
Any additional notes:
This would make a nice, challenging addition, as well as provide the opportunity to extend West Face, which climbers have been wanting to do for some time. (West Face was bolted in the 1980s, at the dawn of sport climbing, and given that climbers then didn’t really venture onto overhanging terrain, it never pushed through the big, obvious roof, which is featured and will only enhance the experience on this climb and the proposed new line.) The route will be easy to put up, won’t require extensive cleaning, uses an existing staging area that is made of rock, and will be a good, bouldery addition to a wall of some of Boulder’s hardest and most-sought-after climbs, helping spread out parties on the wall.