Yellow Streaks (working name)
Route Name: Yellow Streaks (working name)
Rock Formation: Seal Rock
Number of Bolts to be Placed: 15 lead bolts plus 2 bolt anchor
Proposed Grade: 5.13
Route Description: The proposed route starts to the right of the first belay on The Perfect Storm (traversing across a broad ledge). The first 15 meters climb through beautiful yellow streaks on the wall with good edges and face climbing. The route in this section is continuous and interesting with a difficult boulder problem before a break (~5.13).
The route then reaches a shallow corner where it would be possible to climb straight up to the Nattiq anchor at ~5.10. However, the proposed route continues left and up through overhanging rock between Nattiq and The Perfect Storm (staying well clear of both routes) for another 15 meters. The climbing in this section is also continuous, with the most difficult climbing (~5.13) in an overhanging scoop that is reached by trending slightly left up the wall.
The route will end with an anchor after the difficulties and about 20 feet below the summit. It would be possible to run the route to the top of the wall and to the right of The Perfect Storm. However, the rock quality and climbing difficulty would be much lower in this section compared to the rest of the route. Also, it would make it very difficult to get back to the pitch one belay.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a photocopy or diagram of the rock formation with the proposed route drawn in to be accompanied with the route description.
Description of Neighboring/Existing Routes: The North Face of Seal Rock has 6 existing routes.
1. Yellow Door (original route): a 2 pitch climb, with the first pitch rated 12c and the second pitch rated 13a. The route is mostly bolted, but takes gear at the start of the first pitch and end of the second pitch. (The recommended way of climbing Yellow Door is to finish on Sea of Joy, which makes the second pitch 13b).
2. The Hinge: a 13a sport route that shares the first pitch of Yellow Door, then climbs straight up a line of bolts from the belay to through the vertical face to anchors at the lip.
3. Sea of Joy: a three-pitch route that starts about 100’ right of Yellow Door. It is rated 13a and is mostly bolted, but takes some gear on the first pitch.
4. Archaeopteryx: A 3 pitch 5.11+ trad route that starts about 20 feet right of Sea of Joy.
5. The Perfect Storm: A 2 pitch 13b sport route. The proposed route would share the first pitch of this route, as well as the last two bolts of the second pitch.
6. Nattiq: This 2 pitch route awaits a first assent, but is reported to be 5.12 and is mostly bolted.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes, and a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s).
Approach Description: The approach is up the designated trail to the base of Seal Rock, and then up the climbers trail to the North side of Seal Rock. This is the same trail used to access all the existing climbs on the North face of Seal Rock.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the approach, including: approximate distance(s) from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb, condition(s) of the trail(s), a description whether there is a durable surface, such as rock, and photographs of the approach.
Descent Description: The descent is via lowering off the route back to the staging area.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the descent, if different from the approach, using the same evaluation criteria.
Base Area Description: The staging area at the base is the same as for The Perfect Storm since it shares the same first pitch. It is compact dirt and rock, with no pre-existing vegetation.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the proposed route, including: existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, existing soil erosion, and photographs of the area at the base of the climb.
Description of Route Evaluation Efforts: Yes. The lower portion of this route in the summer of 2017 over the course of two days, and again in the summer of 2019 over the course of another 2 days.
With the establishment of The Perfect Storm, the approach pitch has been climbed several times, and the upper section of the climb has been made much more accessible. Several days have been spent inspecting the upper section of the route, including on top-rope and rope-solo.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
The route has been top-roped as much as possible using the upper bolts of The Perfect Storm, as well as strategically placed stoppers to the left of and above the Nattiq anchor. The route is too steep to top-rope in its entirety without fixed gear. There is no loose rock apparent.
The City of Boulder OSMP expects for the person(s) proposing the new route to to perform all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any unapproved hardware.
Additional Notes from the Authors: The team submitting this application has spent a significant amount of time assessing the optimal line on this section of the wall, and we are really excited about the resulting proposal.
Looks good. Excited to see this one go in. An alluring line.
YES! can’t wait