Route Name: Ollie

Rock Formation: The Northern Goose Egg

Number of bolts to be placed:  8 lead bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Route Difficulty: 5.9


The wall is taller and steeper than it appears in this wide angle photo.


 Route Description:

This proposed route is 5.9 and one of the most obvious lines on the wall.  It starts in the center of the S. face and follows amazing huecos straight up vertical rock. A short lower angle section is actually the crux of the climb where there are much smaller holds.  At two-thirds height a bulge is encountered which leads up and left to the anchor.

The route name is sticking with the theme of the Gossie & Gertie series of children’s books.  Ollie is another little gosling from the series and is also is my son’s name.



A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

 Four high quality routes have been top roped at this wall, 2 5.9s and 2 5.11s. This route starts in the middle of the wall about 20 left of Gossie.  Gossie is the 5.11 that has been applied for, but not yet installed.  Her partner Gertie is to the right of Gossie and is another 5.11 going up the arête that could be applied for in the future.  With a few routes developed, this wall could become a wonderful destination for moderate sport climbers to spend a day.

There are other routes in the Goose Eggs:  The East Face of this Egg has a trad/scrambling route.  There is one old sport climb in the CMC alcove called Rules and Regulations 5.11.  The South Goose Egg has the routes Rude Welcome 5.11 (bolts), Power Bacon 5.10 (bolts), Fruity Pebbles 5.9 (bolts) and The Sea and Mirror 5.10 (bolts).  Each egg also has easy East face trad routes.  There will also be the newly approved Eggistential Crisis 5.12 installed after the raptor season.


A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  

Approach from the Fern Canyon trail.  There is a climber trail leading to the existing routes on the S. side of the Southern Goose Egg.  Leave the Fern trail here, but keep right skirting in front of the rocks.  Head North for two hundred yards, then turn left and head up broken slabs into a corridor beneath the Northern Goose Egg.  


The cut off from the Fern Canyon Trail


If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the descent.):

Descent from the climb is to lower back to the staging area and reverse the same trail as the approach.  


Staging area:

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is  comprised of flat stable soil and some rocks.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

All reconnaissance is complete. 

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has been top roped.  The rock is clean and of very high quality.  The wall is generally vertical.

Any additional notes:


4 replies
  1. Dean
    Dean says:

    I like the option for some 5.9’s and 5.11’s to go in at this location. I approve and would like to see “Gossie” installed. Hopefully, that will happen before the fall.


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