Pen 15

Pen 15 (5.12a/13b); FA: Matt Samet, Chris Weidner: This is a two-pitch climb up the left-central part of the Slab’s very overhanging west face, about 50 feet right of the corner whereWhipping Post starts. The entire climb is only 30 meters long, but it’s still best to break it into two pitches, for rope management and drag. Pitch one (5.12a; seven bolts): Start at the big undercling crack and move out the dark-purple bulge, passing three bolts. Head right on the ledge, then engage an overhanging bucket haul past four more bolts to an anchor over the lip. Pitch two (5.13b; seven bolts): A hard boulder problem starts the big swell, followed by more crimping and right-slanting moves on diagonal rails. Anchors up and left of the big pothole at the lip.