Pile in the Sky
Route Name: Pile in the Sky
Rock Formation: Third Flatiron
Number of Bolts to be Placed: 13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Proposed Grade: 5.12a
Route Description: Proposed route, Pile in the Sky (5.12a, 33 meters), is an entirely independent line on the south face of the Outter Wedge of the Third Flatiron. The first 20 meters of the route is mid 5.10 climbing on big holds with numerous good rests. The last 13 meters is sustained 5.11 (vertical to slightly overhanging), with a brief 5.12a crux 5 meters below the anchor. The rock quality is good. A 70 meter rope will be mandatory for this route.
A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required): There are no reported routes on this face. The nearest route is Inner Sanctum 5.9, on the west face of the Outter Wedge. Inner Sanctum and Pile in the Sky share no common ground.
A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the approach.): The approach is as for The Ghetto bouldering area. From the Royal Arch Trail make a short descent on a social trail (the southern Third Flatiron descent trail) to a creek bed, then ascend the gully on the west side of W.C. Fields Pinnacle for 200m. At a notch, on the north side of an unnamed formation just north of W.C. Fields Pinnacle, scramble up right/east (5.2) into the Ghetto (see Ghetto approach photo). Once in the Ghetto (The Ghetto is a small gully/ramp with bouldering on its east side) walk/scramble north to the base of the Outer Wedge.
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.): Descend the approach through The Ghetto and Third Flatiron’s southern descent trail.
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.): Bare rock atop boulders. Much of the approach up through The Ghetto is on solid rock.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done? Yes. Exact line of the climb is now well established after numerous top-rope ascents. Each bolt location has been worked out.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging? Route has been top-roped. The climb is primarily vertical, only slightly overhanging at the very top.
I say “yes” to this one as well–rad feature that climbers have been looking at for years, and the name is solid gold.