K-Dubz Headwall

Route Name: K-Dubz Headwall
Rock Formation: Devil’s Advocate
Number of Bolts to be Placed: 12 bolts, two sets of double-bolt anchors
Proposed Grade: 5.13+ (5.10 to first anchors)


Route Description:
The proposed route is located in the center of the Devil’s Advocate’s south face, which to date has no bolted climbs. The route takes a clean, striking line up one of the steepest parts of the face. The 100-foot climb begins with easier 5.10 hueco features and gradually steepens into difficult 5.13 and 5.13+ climbing to the top of the wall. The route does not offer traditional/natural gear placements. The applicants propose installing 12 bolts, plus mid-way and top anchors. The mid-way anchor would allow for a moderate warm-up at 5.10. See photo for picture of the route with bolt placements.


A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required);
The Devil’s Advocate south face has no bolted routes to date.


A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the approach.);
Hike the Mesa Trail from the S. Shanahan junction, heading south. On the flat mesa just before the Mesa Trail dips down to the Big Bluestem Trail, you cut right along the bed of an old quarry road about 1/3 of a mile to reach the Mamoonius/PB Boulders area. From there, continue due south to a window notch on the rocky ridge, then traverse across to the toe of Devil’s Advocate and go up along the south face. There is very little vegetation on the approach and it’s mostly along pine needles and bare ground.


If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.);
The descent will be from the midway and/or top anchors, both of which will deposit you back at the staging area.


A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.);
The staging area consists of mostly of rocks, dirt and pine needles with little vegetation. There are several decent platforms below the wall for belaying.


Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
Yes, short of placing any hardware, all reconnaissance work has been completed. The applicants have spent several days on the formation toproping the proposed climb and several others. It will be a fantastic climb when installed.


Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?
The applicants have toproped the climbed and inspected the route. The rock is impeccable quality and there is very little, if any, loose rock. All moves have been freed on top-rope, but the route is very overhanging and difficult to work without any directional gear placements.

3 replies
  1. Tony Bubb
    Tony Bubb says:

    There is plenty of room for new lines on this formation if aesthetic and solid rock is there to climb. Nothing of much consequence is really around and it is unlikely to get too much traffic. The line should be approved.

    Reply
  2. Patrick Pharo
    Patrick Pharo says:

    Absolutely approve. I’ve hiked out to this wall, and I definitely want to see some climbing established.
    Thank you

    Reply

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