Rad Kreme Proposal on the Slab

A photocopy or diagram of the rock formation with the proposed route drawn in:

The proposed route is on the West Face of The Slab and takes an independent line between the routes Sooper Kreem 13a, on the left and Undertow 12b, on the right. It will take a line varying from between 10 and 30 feet from either route, never being possible to climb or clip bolts on the other two routes. I believe it will need 12 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts.The proposed route will need to use the same approach slab as Sooper Kreem and then at the ledge system where the hard climbing starts will commence with a hard section of slightly overhanging face moves that may be the technical crux of the route but do to the overhanging nature of the line this section has not been free climbed. I am certain it will go free, though. The route reaches an obvious feature with an undercling where a few easier moves lead to a very overhanging section with a second crux that is about a V6 boulder problem. Just above this section the rock backs off to vertical with many good holds and the route will continue with 5.11 moves for about 20 feet to an obvious finishing point where an anchor will be placed. There are no good options for natural gear and the pitch will be approximately 110 feet long.   

A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

The West Face of The Slab has 16 established routes with a variety of grades from 5.10b to 5.13c. The proposed route Rad Kreem is between the routes Sooper Kreem 13a and Undertow 12b and is approximately 10-30 feet from either route. The routes on The Slab as they stand now (starting from the highest route, uphill on the right side of the wall and going down left) are; Sick For Sleeping 11c, Hippopotamus 11a, Sweet Niblets 12d, Undertow 12b, proposed route Rad Kreem 13, Sooper Kreem 13a, Pen 15 13c, Prime The Pump, 12c, Trad Kreem 10b, Whipping Post 11d, Kookies and Creem 13a, Soo Kreem 13b, Boys With Power Toys 12b, Family Man 12a, Shalosh 12a, Film Noir 12c, Just Another Boys Climb 12a










A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the approach.):

The approach is the standard and well used trail to the West Face of The Slab on dirt and talus rock. 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent:

This is a sport route with lowering anchors at the top of the proposed route.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

Rad Kreem staging areaApproach trail to The Slab

 The staging area for the proposed route is directly beside the well used staging area for Sooper Kreem and is bare rock and dirt. The route will climb the same approach slab as Sooper Kreem. All climbers solo this 5.0 slab.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done? 

The route has been inspected on rappel and numerous top rope attempts and the applicants are certain it will go free. It is too steep to be completely free climbed without bolts.

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging? 

The route has been partially free climbed on top rope but due to the extremely overhanging nature of the rock a red point ascent was not possible. All moves but the bottom 30 feet have been free climbed. There is minimal loose rock and no vegetation on the proposed route.

6 replies
  1. Lynn Hill
    Lynn Hill says:

    The Rad Kreme route looks fantastic! I love climbing in the Flatirons and the Slab is one of the best crags in the area. I would love to see a new line go up on this gorgeous rock!


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