Rain and Snow

Route Description

The proposed line follows a steep face with a variety of interesting holds on the west face of the Box formation.  The climbing features thin crimps and pebbles with nice exposure.  The line has been top roped, all moves have been free climbed, and the difficulty is about 5.11d.  Moves are generally fun and varied, with an interesting 5.10 start climbing up pebbles in the first 15 feet.

This topo shows bolts 1 through 6 leading to a crack.  A medium-sized cam or two can protect the final 15 feet to the proposed two-bolt anchor.  Bolt 1 shown is about 8 feet off the ground. The recently installed Box of Rain is about 20 feet right of this proposed route, and the start of The Prow (12a toprope) is about 20 feet to the left.

The following photo shows the staging area for the new proposed route.  The Mallory cave trail leads directly to this staging area.

Rain and Snow Staging 

Description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation. Including number of routes, route names, route grade, type (traditional or bolted), and approximate distance between.  A photocopy with the proposed route drawn in or a diagram of the existing routes on the face is required.

This proposed route is located about 20 left of the start of Box of Rain (11c sport).  The route Stone Love (5.10d, trad) is the next route heading right (eastward along south face), then Cornucopia (13a, sport) and Discipline (12b, sport) are located further downhill to the right on the south face.  The other routes in this area are on the northwest and north side of the formation.  Going clockwise from the proposed route, these routes include Prow (12a top rope), Sample the Dog (12b sport), Fact of a Door Frame (11c trad), and Aunt Jennifer’s Tigers (10d trad), and Hand Crack (5.9+ trad).

 Description of the approach. Including approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and if there is a durable surface such as rock.  Pictures of the approach are required.    

Rain and Snow Trail

The approach starts with the standard Mallory Cave trail from NCAR.  Just before reaching the Mallory Cave, there is a sign labeled “Upper Dinosaur Mountain Climbing Access” that points to the right.  Follow this trail up another 5 minutes to reach the Box on the right. The trail is solid, durable rock or compacted dirt all the way to the base of the climb.

Description of the descent, if different than the approach.  Including approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails and condition of the trail, and if there is a durable surface such as rock.  Pictures of the descent, if different than the approach are required.   

The descent will be a 55-foot rappel to the ground from two new anchor bolts and chains.  The descent trail uses the same approach trail mentioned earlier.

Description of the area at the base of the climb.  Including existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.   Pictures of the area at the base of the climb are required. 

The base is mostly rock and gravelly soils, with some boulders and small trees. There is no sign of any existing soil compaction, and this area is not well traveled.  Large boulders are present and could be used for staging gear.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done? Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes, the route has been free-climbed on top rope and all moves go free, with nothing harder than 5.11d. There is little to no loose rock.  There are brief sections that are slightly overhanging, but the route is near vertical for most of the climbing. The rock is generally competent and of high quality.

10 replies
  1. Lisa Montgomery
    Lisa Montgomery says:

    I’ve climbed the nearby route, Box of Rain, and really liked it. I think this would be a great addition to the area.

  2. beth bennett
    beth bennett says:

    looks good but i hate sport routes where you have to have the gear beta in order to do the route with adequate pro. if you’re putting in 6 bolts why not add a 7th?

    • Chris Beh
      Chris Beh says:

      This very issue was presented and tested within the local climbing community with the proposal of my route Shalosh on The Slab in 2008. That route has a good gear placement at the rest between the lower and upper sections. The proposal was written specifically to highlight the bolt vs. gear issue. This being Boulder, there are strong opinions either way. The FHRC, felt at the time, the preponderance of opinion was to use the gear option. That has been the standard ever since, as long as the gear is bona fide bomber placements.
      Cheers, Chris

  3. Mike Schlauch
    Mike Schlauch says:

    Looks like a good addition to this area. I don’t think placing a bolt next to a solid gear placement is a good precedent for the Flatirons and there are trad routes nearby so it’s likely that climbers will have brought a rack? Maybe I missed it somewhere, but what is the difficulty of the final 15 feet where the gear placements are?


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