Route Name: Red Arete
Rock Formation: Mickey Mouse
Number of Bolts to be Placed: 31 lead bolts, 8 anchor bolts
Proposed Grade: 1 pitch of slabby 5.10, and 3 pitches of steep 5.13 climbing
Route Description: The proposed route has 4 new pitches of climbing that include 1 pitch of slabby 5.10, and 3 pitches of steep 5.13 climbing.
To avoid affecting the historic climbs on the lower section of the wall, the proposed climb starts with the first pitch of Red Dihedral (5.6, 80’). The first new pitch of climbing is a slab that climbs up the wide expanse between Red Dihedral and Boxcar Willie (P1: 5.10, 60’)
The climbing gets interesting on the next pitch, which is severely overhanging with several volume type features at different angles (P2: ~5.13-, 50’). The climb continues up overhanging rock through overhanging flakes, over the lip, and then up an arete feature (P3: ~5.13, 70’). The final pitch may be the hardest, with a boulder problem entry to a thin and steep arete (P4: ~5.13, 60’).
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a photocopy or diagram of the rock formation with the proposed route drawn in to be accompanied with the route description.
Description of Neighboring/Existing Routes: There are numerous routes on Mickey Mouse Wall that are well documented in Steve Lavin’s “Eldorado Canyon, A Climber’s Guide”. The established routes include a mix of trad and sport. Routes in the immediate vicinity include:
13: Asahi (5.10c, trad/bolted)
14: Perilous Journey (5.11c, trad)
15: Krystal Klyr (5.11a, trad)
19: Red Dihedral (5.12d trad)
20: Stigmata (5.13b, trad/bolted)
21: Boxcar Willie (5.11a sport)
22: The Green Dihedral (5.7+, trad)
23: Plane Geometry (5.12b, mostly bolted)
24: Leap of Faith (5.12a, trad)
25: Simian’s Way (5.10 trad)
26: Mighty Mouse (5.12a bolted)
64: Three Mouseketeers (5.11c bolted)
The attached photo gives an indication of the distance of these climbs from the proposed route. Thanks to Steve Lavin for use of this photo.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes, and a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s).
Approach Description: The approach to Mickey Mouse Wall is well documented on Mountain Project. Here is an excerpt:
To reach Mickey Mouse Wall, take the road to Eldo and turn left on County Road 67 (paved) right before the town. Go about 300 yards to a locked gate. Park here.
Hike up the maintained gravel road, avoiding a left after about 0.5 mile, and continue through a rock cut. Continue hiking up the road aka “Fowler Trail” avoiding a few single track trails heading off to the right. Continue hiking up the road avoiding roads that go off to the right up to the Conda Quarry. At an intersection with a road and a gate on the right continue straight onto a double track for about 100 feet and then take a right onto a single track.
Continue on the single track avoiding a left single track aka “Goshawk Ridge Trail” all the way to the train tracks.
When you arrive at the tracks, turn left and walk along the east side of the tracks towards the tunnel (tunnel 6). About 20 feet before the tunnel, take a faint trail up the dirt berm on the left.
The wall is immediately on the other side of the tunnel. Please DO NOT go through the tunnel. You will climb approximately 200 feet contouring uphill to skirt around the east side of the tunnel, generally paralleling the direction of the tracks. Eventually you will crest the ridge and start descending, continuing to contour around the ridge until you arrive back at the tracks. Promptly cross the tracks and continue towards the wall on the southwest side of the tracks. There is a very poor trail right under the wall, and big talus (preferable) a little to the left. Hike up to your route.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the approach, including: approximate distance(s) from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb, condition(s) of the trail(s), a description whether there is a durable surface, such as rock, and photographs of the approach.
The descent is via lowering off the route.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the descent, if different from the approach, using the same evaluation criteria.
Base Area Description:
The staging area at the base is the same as for Red Dihedral since it shares the same first pitch. It is rock, with no pre-existing vegetation.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the proposed route, including: existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, existing soil erosion, and photographs of the area at the base of the climb.
Description of Route Evaluation Efforts:
Yes. The route has been thoroughly inspected, and several options have been explored to find the best line.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
The route has been top-roped/rope-soloed as much as possible given the severe nature of the climb. The middle section of the route is too steep to top-rope.
The City of Boulder OSMP expects for the person(s) proposing the new route to to perform all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any unapproved hardware.
Additional Notes from the Authors:
We’re excited about this wild line!
Update: This route has been approved by OSMP