Seal Warm Up

Route Description

Seal Rock is home to some classic east face routes, as well as a couple routes on the North face (Sea of Joy 5.13a and Archaeopteryx 5.11X).  This route is on the South Face, which already has 4 bolted lines: From left to right, they are I am the Walrus 14b, Choose Life 5.13d, Thunder Muscle 5.14a, and Skin Flute 5.12.  There are also a couple trad/headpoint routes that have very little protection; Primate 5.13 (just right of Thunder Muscle) and Jade Gate 5.11 X (just right of Skin Flute).   This route starts about 30 feet left of Skin Flute and 50+ feet right of Primate.

This route starts on a very appealing “hueco-ed” wall that has a bouldering traverse that is often used as a warm up.   The route follows a path of least resistance to an exciting and physical exit move over the lip at the top.  This route will be the easiest on the wall at 5.11.  It is a fun line on its own, but it should also provide a nice warm-up for the harder routes.

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the approach.);

The approach is via the Harmon Cave Trail (the standard Seal Rock trail) until the turn off at the North East toe of the Seal.  Then turn left on the amazing “climber access” trail that was recently completed.  After a big switchback to the east then West the trail terminates at the South East corner of Seal Rock.  This route starts 30 left of Skin Flute and about 130 feet West of the start of the East Face Left route.

 The cut off from the Mesa Trail:

Seal Warm Up Trail

 If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.);

Lowering from the anchor will put you right back on the approach trail.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.);

 The staging area is mostly flat with some sand and rock.  The route starts right from the trail at a spot where many people boulder to warm up.

Seal Warm Up Staging

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Yes, the route has been top roped.

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

 The route has been top roped.  There is no loose rock. It is moderately overhanging in places.

12 replies
  1. Bill Wright
    Bill Wright says:

    Sounds good to me. I’d be curious how long the route is? How many bolts are proposed? Does it use an existing anchor at the top or will a new one be installed? Is there any chance for trad gear? Did I miss it in the description above?

    Reply
  2. Tony Bubb
    Tony Bubb says:

    I’ve looked up there a few times and wondered about the potential. If indeed the rock is solid and stable, then this would be a good edition.

    Reply

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