Route Name: Vamos Las Chicas
Rock Formation: The Maiden
Number of bolts to be placed: 25 lead bolts, 3 sets of 2 bolt anchors
Route Difficulty: 5.13
The proposed new route follows the natural features of this impressive, overhanging face in three pitches. We think there will be 6 bolts on the first pitch, plus two bolts for the anchor. We think we will place about 10 bolts on the second pitch, plus two anchor bolts, and the third pitch will require about 9 bolts, plus two anchor bolts. We will do our best to place natural protection whenever possible rather than placing a bolt in order to respect the ethics and aesthetics of this beautiful place.
The name, “Vamos Las Chicas” means, “Let’s go girls” in Spanish, which fits in with the Spanish theme of the neighboring route, “Hasta La Hueco”.
A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):
On the south face of the Maiden, the routes trending from left (uphill) to right (downhill) are: 1. Gates of Galas (5.10d R/X trad); 2. A few yards east and downhill is Gates of Delirium (5.11c sport); 3. Maiden Voyage (5.12b sport), starts above the Crows Nest; 4. The subject route Vamos Las Chicas, 5. 13? Sport; 5. Kor-Dalke, starts just a bit right of Vamos Las Chicas, trad Aid (A3) or free at 5.12 R; 6. Hasta La Hueco, 3 pitches, 5.13b sport; 7. South Face, 5.9R trad, 3 pitches; 8. Belladonna, 5.11a X trad; 9. Southern Seas, 5.11b trad towrope; 10. Heart of the Sunrise, 2 pitches, 5.11a sport; 11. South Crack, 5.11b/c trad.
A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.
The approach starts from the South Mesa Trailhead. Follow the Mesa Trail north to the Shadow Canyon connector, which is directly under the Maiden. At the water trough, turn left (uphill) and follow the Shadow Canyon connector SW for a hundred yards. Turn right from the main trail at a thin path that leads to a quarry. Walk through the quarry to the north and follow an old quarry road. After maybe 200 yards, the road ends and follow the steep climbers trail uphill to the west (marked by cairns) to the base of the east ridge. From there, follow the path uphill along the south face, about 50 feet farther up the hill from the base of Hasta La Hueco.
Where you leave the trail for the quarry:
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):
Descent from the climb is to rappel 3 times back to the staging area or do the classic West Overhang rappel. Then hike out the same trail as the approach.
Looking down on the Staging area:
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):
The base of the route is next to a large tree with boulders and compact soil on the ground.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
The majority reconnaissance work has been done on the first two pitches, but the last pitch will require a bit more work to figure out the exact line.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
We have top roped the sections of the climb that we were able to, but without having the ability to place bolts on such an overhanging face, it’s difficult to be able to climb the entire route! However, we could distinguish a line of holds and general weakness in the middle of this overhanging face that will allow a very fun and beautiful line up this wall.
Any additional notes: