Blood Chakra

Route Name: Blood Chakra

Rock Formation: The Southern Goose Egg

Number of bolts to be placed:  12 lead bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Route Difficulty: 5.11

 Route Description:

I like the beginning of the proposed new route, as well as the overhanging crack towards the top. The route was named from an ambition for ease. I love the blood I come from, and I like to live with honor to my family. I am actually more spiritual than I might act, so Chakra comes from a love of approval to good intentions. I relate to the name as a metal genre in music. Blood Chakra makes me want to be a metal screamer. This is because I have found a lot of pain not following my own families’ spirituality.


A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

The Southern Goose Egg consists of a southern half and a northern half or flank that are separated by a large feature known as the South Ramp (5.1 trad). The proposed route starts about 15-20 yards left of Rude Welcome, an old 5.11c sport route, and both are located on the southern flank.

 Although not visible or easily accessible from this area, the northern flank of the Southern Goose Egg includes the routes (going from east to west): (1) East Face (5.2 trad), (2) The Sea and the Mirror (5.10d sport), (3) Fruity Pebbles (5.9+ mixed bolts and gear), (4) Power Bacon (5.10b mixed), (5) Eggstreme (5.4 trad), and (6) South Ramp (5.1 trad).


Looking down the South Ramp 5.1:


The route Power Bacon on the higher tier to the right:


A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  

The Fern Canyon Trail leads to the start of the undesignated approach trail about fifty yards away (and just to the south) from the proposed climb.

Once the trail turns from the main trail into the undesignated trail to the climb, be aware of small amounts of poison ivy. Also, the undesignated trail gets steep until the climber reaches the base of the climb, then there is a nice belay stance, wide and open for gear and to belay.

The cut off from the Fern Canyon Trail


If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the descent.):

Once climbed, the best descent is to rappel from a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the proposed climb, about 115 feet, back to the staging area.

Staging area:

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the climb has soft ground with some rocks and vegetation including poison ivy and shrubs.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Yes, the route has been top roped and inspected closely, and some minor flakes were removed.

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has been top roped. There doesn’t seem to be much loose rock, there is only some minor cleaning to be done. Going up the crack closer to the anchors becomes slightly overhanging, but the route has been climbed free at 5.11.

Any additional notes:


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