Hoodang Hoedown

Route Name: Hoodang Hoedown

Rock Formation: Hillbilly Rock

Number of bolts to be placed:  7-8 bolts + 2 bolt anchor

Route Difficulty: 5.13+

 Route Description:

The proposed climb (5.13+) tackles an estimated five bolts’ worth of fully independent climbing on the thin face between West Face (5.12c) and West Face Right (5.12a) on Hillbilly Rock. It climbs over a difficult bulge at the bottom (~V9/10) onto the face, where thin climbing (5.12/12+) on crimp holds leads to a shared anchor with West Face. It will then proceed out the big roof (~5.12) and up the left-trending corner system above West Face, past two or three more bolts, to anchors at the base of the overhanging panel at the top of the wall, slightly left of an arete feature to minimize rope drag. This will also allow West Face to be done as a longer climb, likely at 5.12d or 5.13a, though the lower anchor should still stay in, for those who only wish to do the original West Face, and also to help with cleaning quickdraws. The name plays off hillbilly themes like “hoodang” and “hoedown,” both of which refer to dance parties.

The route name is in keeping with the Hillbilly theme of the formation.

A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent route is via lowering back to the staging area below the wall, onto a durable rock-and-soil surface

Staging area:

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is a rock ledge with compacted soil below it.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

We have worked the lower face, to the West Face anchors, on toprope, and done each move in isolation. And have inspected the roof, above the West Face anchors, and corner above extensively on a rope from the neighboring climb Tiger King.

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

The lower face has been toproped. The route has a small roof down low and a big one above but is otherwise mostly vertical or gently overhanging. It has some small loose flakes that broke while we were climbing on it and a bit of loose stuff above the upper roof that will need to be cleaned, but is otherwise on very solid, varnished rock.

Any additional notes: