Later Creators

Route Name: Later Creators

Rock Formation: Ridge 1, Skunk Canyon

Number of bolts to be placed:  7-8 bolts + 2 bolt anchor

Route Difficulty: 5.12d/13a 




 Route Description:

This new route climbs the overhang on the west face of the summit tower at the top of Ridge One (Stairway to Heaven) in Skunk Canyon. This new route will climb a 28-32 degree overhang for approximately 50 feet via a system of lieback flakes and crimps. To finish you will pull and mantle the lip at the top of the cliff and come to a stance where the anchors will be placed. This climb is located all the way at the top of the Ridge 1 cliff. We are proposing a grade of 12d / 13a for this route. We have spoken with the First ascensionist, Paul Glover, of “Like Hell it is” since the lines will intersect, and he has given us approval to bolt this line.


The route name is in keeping with the theme of the formation, as Ridge 1’s aka is “Stairway to Heaven”.


A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):


This route starts clear of any route in the area and will round out the sport climbs in this area nicely. This climb is directly uphill from the 5.14 “Skunked”. It also begins just down the hill and just right from the 5.11a trad route “Like Hell it is”. As mentioned above this line shares the top out with the route mentioned above and we have received permission from Paul to apply for this permit. With the inclusion of this route there will be four sport climbs and 5 trad climbs on this wall.

From Left to Right the routes are:

Like Hell it is 5.11 trad, The proposed route 5.13 sport, Skunked 5.14 sport, God’s Kingdom on Earth 5.12c sport, Heaven and Hell 5.13a sport, Hellbound 5.13a/b sport, Sidereal 5.10 trad, Seventh Inning Stretch 5.11d trad, Boot Hill 5.8 trad, In God We Trust 5.10c trad, and the SE ridge route Stairway to Heaven 5.3


A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  

To reach the west face of Ridge One, you hike up to Hillbilly Rock and continue up for 3-5 minutes along the descent trail for “Stairway to Heaven.” This climber’s trail is comprised of dirt and rock and clearly marked with rock cairns. The descent drops you off at a saddle just north of the summit of Ridge One, from where you hike a down a separate climber’s trail in a wide gully for about 50’ to the base of the proposed route.


If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the descent.):

The climber will lower off the chains back to the belay.

Staging area:

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):


The base of the route is comprised of rock as shown in the photo below. There is no vegetation on or near either staging area—it’s all rock and dirt.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Yes, this route has been inspected for rock quality, and the suggested rating of 12d/5.13a the route has mostly been top roped/inspected on rappel and from the ground.

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes, this route has been toproped at the top, and holds have been observed for the bottom. A few loose flakes will need to be cleaned and small flakes cleaned for safety.

Any additional notes:


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