Mystery Solved

Route Name: Mystery Solved

Rock Formation: The Third Flatiron

Number of bolts to be placed:  10 lead bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Route Difficulty: 5.11 b/c



 Route Description:

This route goes up the center of the prominent wall directly behind The WC Fields Pinnacle.  Historically this route has been documented as Two Bolt Mystery route. It is also believed that the route was never finished.  In its current state, there are 2 lead bolts and 3 old anchor bolts on top.  All of which would be removed and patched.  The new route will start 10 feet right of Panda Rigalo and angle left toward the current first bolt.  Then the climb will exit the wall about 15’ down and right of the old anchor.  This new path will avoid the poor quality rock that likely caused the route to be abandoned 40 years ago.  The improved route will be about 5.11b/c and a great addition to this fun area.

The name removes the question of weather there is a climb here.


A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

The Third Flatiron is home to many routes of all variety.  This route is on the large face directly behind the WC Fields Pinnacle.  This buttress has a few routes already: Uphill to the west and around the corner is the trad route Soarks 5.10, a scary direct finish to Soarks called Funny Games 5.12d R and a sport route called Holier Than Thou 5.11c.  Just left of this route is the bolted route Panda Rigalo 5.11 (see photo). These two routes will share the staging area.



A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  

Follow the Royal Arch trail until the point where the New re-route meets the Old re-route. This spot is directly across from the WC Fields Pinnacle.  Looking SW you can see a buckrail fence blocking the “Old” Royal Arch trail.  Follow the old trail South for 100 feet until the obvious crossing of the drainage.  There is a climber trail that leads up the South side of WC Fields Pinnacle. After a short uphill hike the trail leads directly to this buttress.


This is where you head down to the Old trail:

The cut off from the Fern Canyon Trail


If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the descent.):

Descent from the climb is to lower back to the staging area and hiking out on the same trail as the approach.  


Staging area:

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is mostly solid rock.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

All reconnaissance is complete. 

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has been top roped extensively to find the best line.


Any additional notes:


4 replies
  1. Matt S
    Matt S says:

    Looks good. I remember trying to “lead” this years ago, ground-up, with cams and stuff in huecos. I didn’t get very far, and always felt that it needed to be fully bolted, or it was just a dumb death route. I vote yes


Leave a Reply

Want to join the discussion?
Feel free to contribute!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *