Unnamed Route on Red Devil

Route Name: TBD
Rock Formation: Red Devil
Number of Bolts to be Placed: 11
Proposed Grade: Likely 5.9

Route Description: The proposed route ascends the west side of the south face of the Red Devil formation. It is about 90 feet long and will require 9 protection bolts plus a two bolt/chain anchor at the top. The route has been top-roped by two people and the grade is likely 5.9. This should provide an excellent, long, and moderate route in an area that is already popular with beginning sport climbers.

The character of the route is similar to its neighbor to its left, Paradise Lost (5.8+). The angle is slightly less than vertical but the route goes through several steeper bulges with a crux at about 20-25ft moving past one of them. The rock quality is excellent, requiring no significant cleaning beyond a few thin flakes that can be removed by hand.

The City of Boulder OSMP requires a photocopy or diagram of the rock formation with the proposed route drawn in to be accompanied with the route description. 


Approach Description: The approach to this climb follows the standard approach to the Red Devil. It begins at NCAR, crossing the Mesa Trail then hiking the popular Mallory Cave trail. At the point where the Mallory Cave trail passes Der Zerkle then goes up a rock slab to the left, there is a climber trail that continues to the right. The proposed climb is a couple of switchbacks up this trail, directly to the right of Paradise Lost.

The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the approach, including: approximate distance(s) from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb, condition(s) of the trail(s), a description whether there is a durable surface, such as rock, and photographs of the approach.

Descent Description:

This is a sport climb and the descent is via lowering or rappelling from a two bolt anchor.

The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the descent, if different from the approach, using the same evaluation criteria. 

Base Area Description: 

The base of the route is shared with Paradise Lost and is situated close to a switchback in the climber trail going to other parts of the Red Devil. The beginnings of the two route are adjacent but there will be sufficient room for two belayers (see Fig. 2). While Paradise Lost begins just left of a boulder at the base, the proposed route will begin by clipping a bolt from the top of the boulder (or from large holds one move up) and will move immediately right.

Notes: This route has been approved by OSMP

The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the proposed route, including: existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, existing soil erosion, and photographs of the area at the base of the climb.


Description of Route Evaluation Efforts:

Yes. The route has been thoroughly inspected.

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has been top-roped, there is no loose rock, it is not overhanging.

4 replies
  1. Matt Bentley
    Matt Bentley says:

    I’ve climbed Paradise Lost a few times, and it’s a great route for newer climbers and for an intro to Flatirons-style sport climbing. It would be nice to have another bolted climb of similar difficulty on the formation.

  2. Rui Ferreira
    Rui Ferreira says:

    Nice to see easier routes being developed. The Mallory Cave area is popular with climbers looking for routes in the 5.10 and below range so this is a good addition.


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