Rikki-Rikki-Tavi
Route Name: Rikki-Tikki-Tavi
Rock Formation: Overhang Rock
Number of bolts to be placed: 17 lead bolts + 2 bolt anchor
Route Difficulty: 5.13
Route Description:
The proposed route ascends the west face of Overhang Rock, between existing routes Honey Badger and Tits Out for the Lads (TOFTL). The route starts about 15-20 ft left of TOFTL, going up some introductory 5.11 climbing to a small ledge. The climber then launches up the 5.12 slab to a difficult and technical boulder problem (V6 ish). More techy slab on excellent rock leads to a small roof with jugs on the lip. More difficult 5.12 slab climbing leads up to a massive roof at the top of the wall. The roof is bypassed slightly right of the bolt line in a weakness, above and to the left of the anchor for TOFTL. The climber then climbs the lip of the roof back slightly left, and finishes on a difficult redpoint crux. Finally, jugs lead up and slightly left to the anchor.
The route name, Rikki-Tikki-Tavi, is a reference to the classic 1894 short story by Rudyard Kipling about adventures of a valiant young Indian grey mongoose in his struggles against several snakes in a garden in which he lives. The name fits into the theme of snakes and badgers established by other routes on the wall.
A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):
There are several existing routes on the west side of Overhang rock, listed below:
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Thulsa Doom, Sport, 5.13a
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Snake Watching, Sport, 5.13a
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Ouroboros, Sport, 5.12d
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Honey Badger, Sport, 5.13a
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TOFTL, Sport, 5.12b
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Release the Hostages, Sport, 5.13-
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The Big Picture, Sport, 5.12b
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Missing Link, Sport, 5.12b/c
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Short Attention Span, Sport, 5.11d
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Strata-Caster, Sport, 5.12c
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Junior Achievement, Trad, 5.8
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A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.
Approach from the Bear Canyon Trailhead. Hike up Bear Canyon Trail all the way to the established Overhang Rock climber’s trail, about 500 ft after the Bear Canyon Trail turns west into Bear Canyon. The climber’s trail heads up south and back east towards the base of the west face of Overhang Rock. The climber’s trail is well established, and the base of the west face around the proposed route is solid rock (route starts on the ledge left of TOFTL)
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):
Climbers descend by lowering off the route with a 70 m rope and reversing the approach in.
Staging area:
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):
The base of the climb is a solid rock ledge. The belayer can stand directly below the proposed route on the ledge, or further down near the base of Honey Badger (if no one is climbing Honey Badger) .
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
Yes. The route has been scoped and top roped, and most of the moves have been freed.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
Yes – the route has been mostly freed on TR. The route is not too overhanging other than the large roof on top of the route. The rock is incredibly good for the area, and requires minimal cleaning.
Any additional notes:
This route is in character with the other routes on the wall, and would be a great addition for climbers that have completed other climbs on the wall, or for when the other routes are busy. The route is completely independent and does not cross or interfere with any of the other existing routes.
Looks awesome, heck yeah!
Sure
Sure, fine.