Spider Candy

Route Name: Spider Candy

Rock Formation: The Fiddlehead in Fern Canyon

Number of bolts to be placed: 15 lead bolts + 2 2 bolt anchors

Route Difficulty: Approximately 5.13

2nd pitch:

Pitch 1:

Route Description:

The proposed route is on the section of the Fiddlehead 100 feet downhill from Chains of Love and 150 feet uphill from Castles Made of Sand and Shadow Sickness. The start of the route is about 30 feet uphill from Stemdilemma. The first pitch will end on the same sloping ledge as Stemdilemma. The second pitch will tackle an obvious line out the huge overhang above. There are no other routes on this upper section of the wall. This route is so steep it precluded top rope inspection or climbing. Given the plethora of holds and generally solid rock the applicant has high confidence the route will be climbable. The first pitch begins with 25 feet of moderate, less than vertical face climbing that will require two or three bolts. This leads to a 3 foot wide overhang and the beginning of a splitter, vertical, thin crack which leads to the sloping ledge in about 30 feet. This pitch is estimated to be in the mid-5.11to 11+ range. The second pitch starts with about 15 feet of a vertical crack that leads directly to the line of holds out the big overhang. The applicant estimates this overhanging section is about 45 feet long. The route will end at an anchor on the vertical wall above the lip. Once fully over the lip of the overhang there is a hands-off stance and it is the obvious place to end the route.

I’m not sure what the name means, but it’s something cute that one of my children said and it seemed like a fun name.

A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

The other routes on the lower section of The Fiddlehead are Chains of Love 5.12b, about 100 feet uphill. Stemadilemma 5.11d, 30 feet to the right of the proposed first pitch which ends on the same sloping ledge below the proposed second pitch. One hundred feet downhill are A Shadow Sickness 5.10c and Castles Made of Sand 5.11d.

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach follows the Fern Canyon trail to the standard climber’s trail to Chains of Love. The climber’s trail leaves the hiking trail at the toe of The Nebel Horn Ridge and follows the base of it’s east face, climbing uphill until one can contour north across large boulders to the bottom of the Fiddle head.

where you leave the Fern Canyon trail:

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The decent will be from bolted anchors at the top of the route and reversing the approach trail.

Staging area:

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area at the base of the proposed route is mostly bare rock and dirt. There is a boulder structure below that naturally reinforces it and will prevent erosion.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

The route has been inspected on rappel and verified that it will be climbable at an estimated grade of 5.12+ – 5.13. It is too steep to toprope successfully. There is a minimal amount of loose rock and overall the rock is quite solid.

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The route is too overhanging to top rope.