The Handy Warm-up Proposal on the Hand

A photocopy or diagram of the rock formation with the proposed route drawn in:

The proposed route is on the West Face of The Hand just left of the route New Saigon and will become the left most route on the wall. It has been red pointed on top rope at 5.10a and will make a nice warm up for the adjacent routes. It is approximately 45 feet long. The crux of the route starts off the ground and may require a stick clip due to the nature of the terrain. Both New Saigon and Cardboard Cowboy are also best started by stick clipping the first bolts. After the initial clip the rest of the route is a consistent series of 5.8 to 5.9 moves to a final 5.9 + crux above the last bolt. It is on solid rock with interesting edges and pockets.

 A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

The proposed route would be the left most route on the wall and 5 – 10 feet left of the seldom climbed trad route I Met Scott. It is a natural line that in no way detracts from the nearby route.


 There are six routes, mostly sport climbs, on the West Face of The Hand; from left to right, I Met Scott 5.7, New Saigon 5.11a, Cardboard Cowboy 5.11c, Father On Fire 5.10d, The Perfect Kiss 5.11d, and Rock Atrocity 5.13d.

 A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the approach.):

The approach is the standard and well used trail to the West Face of The Hand and Der Freischutz. It is on durable rock and compact soils. The climber’s approach leads to the route Power Bulge and from there climbers scramble up a ramp and chimney of solid rock to the staging area below the west face of The Hand.

 Approach trail to W Face of The Hand

 If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the descent.):

The proposed route is a sport climb with lowering anchors at the top.

 A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

Handy Warm Up staging area 

 The staging area for the proposed route is bare rock and compact soils and is already well used by the adjacent route new Saigon.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done? 

All reconnaissance is complete.

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging? 

The proposed route has been free climbed on top rope. There is no loose rock.

4 replies
  1. Lynn Hill
    Lynn Hill says:

    The Handy Warm up looks like a great line on some uniquely featured rock. I fully support the idea of creating more warm-up routes and challenges for climbers of a wider variety. I love the Flatirons!

  2. Bob Rotert
    Bob Rotert says:

    Nice to have warm ups. My only suggestion is, and I know some will criticize this, why create it where a stick clip is needed. I don’t normally carry a stick clip with me when I go climbing and don’t like the idea of needing to because routes are being done where this is expected. While I know this is common practice on some routes in sport climbing area’s. I don’t think of it as a standard in the Boulder Flatiron area. If you are going to put bolts in to do a route and it is not going to be established in a ground up standard. Why not put another one in so no stick is needed. I do understand there can be cases where an exception might be warranted. Think about if this stick clip really makes sense for this case.


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