August 2014 Route Applications

July 28, 2014

Long Journey, 5.12-, West Face of Pebble Beach, Sacred Cliffs

Pebble Beach Overview: Proposed climb, the Long Journey, is route #16.

Pebble Beach, perhaps one of the more “popular” areas of the Sacred Cliffs, includes 15 different routes according to the most recent guidebook. Two traditional routes, Imperfect Offwidth (5.8) and Perfect Hand Crack (5.9+), exist on the north face of Pebble Beach, and are located just left of the proposed climb. The proposed climb, Long Journey (#16 in the overview photo ), is currently a toprope with a 2-bolt anchor at the top, though it is not known when the anchor was installed or who did the first ascent. It more or less follows the blunt northwest arête of the Pebble Beach formation. Immediately right of this proposed bolted climb, from left to right, are Dan and Randy Show (bolted 5.10d), Ray Honed (bolted 5.10c), Mono Ray (top rope 5.10c), Catching Rays (bolted 5.10b), and Ray Ban (top rope 5.10d). All of the sport routes use bolts for protection, with little or no available natural gear.

Figure 1: All six clips on Long Journey (route #16) plus the anchors (to be upgraded).

A few more routes exist on a lower tier below the routes listed above (to the west and south). They are, from left to right, as follows: 98-pound Weakling (5.9 X chopped/TR now), Wide I Do It (trad 5.10a), Wishful Thinking (trad 5.8), Rip Tide (toprope 5.11a), Pebble Beach (5.10a chopped/TR), Crater Beach (5.10a chopped/TR), and Red Tide (5.9 X/solo).

Climber approach trail to the Sacred Cliffs, where it leaves the Green Mountain West Ridge Trail.

To get to Pebble Beach, take the standard approach to the Sacred Cliffs, following the Green Mountain West Ridge Trail toward the summit of Green Mountain. Just a short distance below the actual summit, perhaps 200 yards below, the climber’s trail forks off right to the south; there is a visible trail and a white sign within view from the main trail.  The trail is thin but continuous, and mostly follows the south ridge on dirt or duff, staying just west of the ridge wherever large rock formations are present on the ridge. It’s about a half-mile walk from the main trail to the Pebble Beach crag.

Sign marking the climber-approach trail/boundary.

The descent initially involves a rappel off the top of the route (Long Journey), approximately 50 feet to the ground. From there, follow the same approach trail along the ridge back to the West Ridge Trail.

Rock and dirt staging area at base of route.

The staging area is a rocky base area with little to no vegetation. Some small talus exists, but mostly large rock slabs are present. Not much soil is present nearby.

Rock belay platform and the first bolt of the route

All recon work has been completed, and all portions of the route have been climbed on toprope. There is no loose rock anywhere; the natural rock is very clean and sharp! The climbing involves vertical to overhanging crimps in a beautiful position. The rock is crisp, incut, and rather sharp in general. Although the guidebook lists this climb at 5.11c, we thought it was quite a bit harder.

Bolts 1 through 4, showing the one existing, lone bolt now (which will become clip 2).

The initial climbing involves powerful 5.10 and 5.11 crimping, followed by a 5.12- cruxy move around a bulge. This is followed by sustained 5.11 crimpy climbing, then a final 5.12- crux near the top, followed by 5.10 slab moves to the anchor.   We are proposing 6 bolts to protect the 50 feet of climbing as shown in the following photo — there is no possibility for natural protection. One stray bolt does exist, about 15 feet off the ground — perhaps a partial installation of the climb before the bolting ban. We propose to replace this bolt with what would be the second bolt of the pitch. Overall, it’s a very sustained, high quality climb on bullet rock.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Passed

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Big Bruce, 5.12a/b, Southwest Face of the Goose, Fern Canyon

Figure 1: Southwest Face of the Goose, showing the proposed climb, with its bolts and anchors marked, as well as existing routes. Note that its previous name, Silver Linings, is used instead of the current application name, Big Bruce.

The proposed route is on the southwest face of the Goose, Fern Canyon. The southwest face at present is home to three existing climbs. From left to right they are: Raging Bull (5.12b sport; two pitches); Wild Horses (5.13a sport, with a shared start on the trad route Sweet and Innocent); and Sweet and Innocent (5.10b trad). There is also a new soon-to-be sport climb, Golden Goat, approved by FHRC and OSMP in early 2014, down and right of Sweet and Innocent. The proposed climb, Big Bruce, begins 30 feet left of the sport route Raging Bull, near the juncture of the south and west faces; it is about 30 feet to the right of the staging area for the west-face route Deserted Cities of the Heart (5.9 sport/mixed).

Trail to the Goose, southwest face, marked in blue.

The approach is the standard approach to the south Face of Goose, a well-used, designated but unsigned climber’s trail through forest and talus. The trail begins just above the “Superfresh” block and heads north up the gully along the base of Fiddlehead. After 300 yards it moves right through a talus-notch between Fiddlehead and the East Ridge formation, to cross talus directly east to the southwest face of the Goose.

This will be a sport route with lowering anchors, so no descent trail is required. The climber will lower directly back to the staging area. The base of the proposed route is mostly rock and talus that will not be subject to additional erosion due to use. It is along the existing climber’s approach to the route Raging Bull and along the trail leading to the West Face of The Goose and the route Deserted Cities of the Heart.

Staging area below Big Bruce

Big Bruce with bolt locations

The route has been toproped at a grade of 5.12a/b. It has minimal loose rock and will not deteriorate due to use. The climbing starts out with some vertical 5.11 moves to a first overhang with mid-5.11 moves through the roof and a section of vertical rock above. A decent rest can be had at this point before surmounting another roof and the crux section just above, where the climber reaches a third roof. Good holds appear at the lip of the final roof and lead to the proposed anchor above. The route will require 12 protection bolts and 2 bolts for the anchor. There is no opportunity for natural protection, so exclusively bolt protection is recommended.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Passed

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Old Chub, 5.12, North Face of the Matron

Upper north face of the Matron, showing Old Chub and its relation to existing climbs; upper 9 bolts on Old Chub and shared anchors are pictured.

This route is located on the upper right side of the north face of the Matron, and starts behind a huge flake forming a wide chimney, about 30 feet left of the route Father Knows Best (5.11b). There are a total of 10 existing routes on the north face. Beginning from the eastern end and running uphill and west, they are: East Ridge (5.5 trad), No Stranger to Danger (5.9 R trad), Quiche on a Leash (5.10c trad), Real Men Don’t Eat Quiche (5.11a trad), Pasta Man (5.9 trad), North Face (5.6 trad), North Face Right (5.5 trad), Nordwand (5.7 A3), In Spite of Love (A2), Northwest Crack (5.10c trad), and Father Knows Best (5.11b sport). The proposed climb, Old Chub, starts approximately 20 feet up and right of Northwest Crack and starts about 30 feet left of Father Knows Best; meanwhile, Nordwand and In Spite of Love begin in a large right-facing corner about 60 feet left and downhill of Northwest Crack, and the remaining north face routes are farther downhill to the east and not in the vicinity of the proposed route

Starting zone of Old Chub, behind the detached chimney/flake.

approach

Both the nearby Father Knows Best and the old aid route In Spite of Love (A2) finish at the 2-bolt anchor atop the first pitch of the West Face (5.8R). The proposed route would also finish at these anchors, and all three routes converge at the arête about 4-5 feet below these anchors. At the top of the proposed line, the aid crack of In Spite of Love is within 6 to 10 feet in an area where two bolts are proposed. Although said bolts would be far enough away from the aid placements to make if difficult or impractical to reach the bolts from that route, we went ahead and contacted the first ascentionist, Eric Doub. He said he was fine with our proposed bolts and gave us encouragement to develop the new line. The line Father Knows Best is at least 10-15 feet away at all times except for the very top where all three routes converge. Take the standard approach to the Matron. The most direct approach involves hiking out of Eldorado Springs up the Old Mesa Trail to the Shadow Canyon Trail. Take the latter trail a short distance up to the first ravine encountered, and the Matron trail branches off right there. Follow the distinct climber-approach trail (mostly dirt) up another 10 minutes to the eastern toe of the Matron, and a thin trail through talus and dirt paths extends up along the north face to all routes.

approach trail close

The descent initially involves a rappel (about 85 feet) off the top of the first pitch of the West Face, then you can return down along the north-face trail to your backpacks, etc. Follow the same climber’s trail down to the Old Mesa Trail. Very rocky base area with little to no vegetation. A few scattered raspberry canes were present around the base area during mid-July 2014. No “soil” is visible anywhere in the base area; mostly talus and large rock chunks. The standard rappel off the West Face lands in this same area, though it is possible to trend west and rappel to the base of the West Face too (located perhaps 15 yards up and right of the staging/ base area). Because of the vertical nature of the climbing and the availability of natural protection up high to rig directionals, all recon work has been completed and all portions of the route have been climbed on toprope. The route starts by stemming off a huge flake that forms an approximately 40-foot-wide chimney at the base of the north face. Upon pulling onto the face with conglomerate holds, the line trends up and right along for approximately 35 feet along sustained 5.11 knobs and pockets. Then, the holds get much thinner and the climb goes up and left into sustained 5.12- climbing across a smooth face. The rock is extremely clean here and the holds are small but sharp. The climbing largely involves long reaches to decent holds, with little else in between, resulting in lots of high steps, mantel-like moves, and dynos.

Staging area for Old Chub.

Once through this relatively blank section, the climbing trends back right, about 10-12 feet below the roof, and follows easier 5.10 and 5.11 climbing to the arête. Other than a small crack about 35 feet up, there do not appear to be any possibilities for natural protection. As such, we recommend 4 bolts from the ground leading up to the crack, a piece of protection in the ½” to 1” range would be placed next (in the crack), and then 7 more bolts would be used to protect the remaining upper portion of the pitch, which contains no natural protection opportunities. There is little to no loose rock, save some softer rock in the last 5 to 10 feet of the pitch, under which the natural line traverses. Due to the high quality of competent rock present, very little cleaning (mostly a light brushing) would be required for a very clean and safe route. We would also like to replace the existing and aging anchor at the top of the first pitch of the West Face (also used for Father Knows Best and to be shared by this new route) with ½-inch stainless steel bolts, a ring, and chain set for rappelling.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Passed

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Dinosaur Jr., 5.10-, West Face of Dinosaur Rock Dinosaur Rock is home to a handful of easy (5.0–5.6) traditional slab routes on the east face; five 5.11+-to-5.13a sport routes on the north face (Pretty in Pinkler, 5.11+; The Shaft, 5.12b; Patience Face, 5.12a; Milk Bone, 5.13a; Ultrasaurus, 5.13a) ; one 5.12- sport route on the upper west face (Pink Man’s Burden, two pitches, 5.12a), and three 5.9–5.10 sport routes (Tracks are for Kids, 5.10; Big Bob Cranks, 5.9+; and Triceratops Tracks, 5.10c) on the lower west face on the semi-separate fin. There are no other routes on the small pinnacle containing the proposed climb, which is in the saddle due west of Dinosaur Rock’s summit. It will be possible to toprope a few variations of the Dinosaur Jr. face from its anchor (pending approval).

West face of Dinosaur Rock, showing Dinosaur Jr.

To access this climb, follow the Mallory Cave Trail to the point where a short climber’s trail cuts off to the left for the sport climbs on the north face: e.g., The Shaft, Milk Bone, etc. Follow the main Mallory Cave trail up two more switchbacks past here then follow an established climber-approach trail up and south through a notch. This is the trail that leads down to the west-face walk-off and the routes on the lower west face of Dinosaur Rock: Tracks are for Kids, Big Bob Cranks and Triceratops Tracks. An included photo shows the view from the saddle to The Mallory Cave Trail down along this climber’s approach trail. Once you start downhill south from the saddle, it is only 40 more feet on solid rock to reach the base of the proposed climb, Dinosaur Jr.

Climber approach trail from Mallory Cave to notch west of Dinosaur Rock summit.

The climb is in a beautiful south-facing spot overlooking Bear Canyon, but the route won’t be visible from the Mallory Cave Trail. Rapping/lowering from the anchor will land you on an established climbers trail directly back at the base of the route, at the staging area. All recon has been done. The route has been top roped.  It is mostly near-vertical face climbing with no opportunity for natural gear placements, and so bolt protection is recommended in the form of four clips (plus possibly one optional/supplemental piece of gear between bolts 1 and 2, over the lip of the roof) to double-bolt anchors. The climbing is reminiscent of Bidoigt (a 5.10a on Der Freischutz) in length and difficulty with the exception of the start.

Staging area, Dinosaur Jr.

Dinosaur Jr. has a very unique start. It begins in a cave-like feature and requires some bizarre body positions and techniques to exit the steep cave and reach the face climbing. After exiting the cave, delicate balance and pebble crimping lead up the steepening face. Diagonal rails provide fun sloper holds along the way to a crux bulge about 3/4s of the way up. After the bulge there are some solid gear placements that would be optional since it’s an easy jaunt to the anchor. There is no loose rock and no notable cleaning will be required.

Chimney start to Dinosaur Jr.

Upper face on Dinosaur Jr.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Passed

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Proposed New Route, 5.12a, the Goose

January 4, 2014

The proposed route, Golden Goat, is on the south/west face of the Goose, right of Sweet and Innocent. It starts by pulling a small roof onto a steep wall with powerful, reachy moves (5.11-), followed by sustained 5.10 and 5.11- climbing on vertical to slightly overhanging rock with large holds. At the top of the pitch (last 10 feet), the holds get smaller and the angle increases, requiring hard pulling on crimpy holds (5.12a crux).

West face of the Goose, showing Golden Goat and other climbs.

The rock quality is good, and little or no cleaning is required.  There are only a few random natural gear placements near the line, but they are too far away to be used for this pitch, or in some cases are in more friable rock in the dark-brown roof bands. As such, placement of bolts (9 1/2″ by 2.75″ bolts) is recommended for safe lead protection.

The climbing ends on a large ledge just above the last bolt shown on the topo/photo. The proposed route includes 9 new bolts, plus two anchor bolts above the ledge on top of the pitch. The rappel anchor will consist of a bolt with a ring, plus a higher bolt with chain and ring. Climbers will be able to safely rappel or lower from this anchor using a 60-meter rope. Or the party can continue with Sweet and Innocent to the summit of the Goose. If continuing up, traverse left along a 5.7 crack about 15 feet till joining Sweet and Innocent, then follow that route approximately 80 feet to the top. Once back on the ground, reverse the approach hike described below.

Start of approach along East Ridge/Fiddlehad

There are only three existing routes in the near vicinity of the proposed route (Golden Goat). Golden Goat is a completely independent line located approximately 30 feet right of Sweet and Innocent (5.10), and is roughly 200 feet left of the route Batman (5.10b). Wild Horses (5.13a, a variation finish on Sweet and Innocent) and Raging Bull (5.12b) are also located left of the proposed line, and both share their start with Sweet and Innocent. All of these existing routes are trad with the exception of Raging Bull, which is a bolted sport climb. However, all of these existing trad routes also include bolts in addition to trad gear placements.

The approach as for the East Ridge (of Fern Canyon) is recommended, as a small climbing access trail already exists.  This approach trail leaves the main Fern Canyon trail just past the Superfresh Block. After hiking past the lower East Ridge routes, a large gap is encountered at the top (north) end of Fiddlehead… head directly east through this gap and over talus to the Goose. The base of the west face of the Goose is approximately one-half mile (15-minute hike) beyond the point above Superfresh where you leave the main Fern Canyon Trail.  The hike is mostly on rock and talus, with very little soil or duff along the way except for near the start when leaving the main trail.

Notch between Fiddlehead/East Ridge.

The base of the climb is bedrock outcrops and talus, with no vegetation. There is no soil at all in the vicinity of the base of the route.

FHRC Overview of the application: Approved

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

Staging area below Golden Goat.

August 2013 Route Applications

August 2, 2013

Middle Line 5.13, West Face of Overhang Rock

Middle Line Main route topo

The proposed climb, Middle Line takes a more or less parallel line about 15-20 feet to the right of Snake Watching, heading straight up the vertical face before diagonalling up and right through the tiered roofs at the top of the wall. Like Snakewatching and Honey Badger, Middle Line is roughly 35 meters long and will require a 70m rope. The climb accesses the face at an obvious weakness in the lower roof band and contains powerful moves on slopers to reach a jug at the lip. A few more hard moves (5.12-) deposit the climber on the face, at which point the climber follows good edges and pockets up the brown face (5.11) to a very hard thin section (5.13) that ends with an undercling on the right side of the hanging “S” shaped-corner that starts about halfway up the wall. The climb follows the corner rightward to its end, then up the golden face on good holds, veering slightly left to an amazing rippled-jug and green lichen streak. At the top of the green streak, the climb somewhat adjoins the vertical portion of Snake Watching in one spot; however, the applicants do not feel that there will be any overlap, as Middle Line then moves sharply to the right and up through the final tiered roofs, ending with pumpy and powerful climbing to the anchor at the top.

Middle Line bolt topo

The applicants propose using 15 protection bolts, plus an additional two bolts with rings-and-chain at the anchor, as the climb offers no opportunities for natural gear. The applicants feel that this is the minimum number of bolts to safely protect the climb given the length.  Overall, the route is on very solid rock featuring a variety of holds and movement; only minor cleaning of a few small flakes will be needed upon installation of the protection bolts.

Middle_Line_Overview_New

There are currently ten established routes on the west face of Overhang Rock. Snake Watching (sport, 5.13a; route 613 in the photo below) is the leftmost route on the wall and is separate from the rest of the routes.  Approximately 50 feet right of Snake Watching is Honey Badger, another 5.13a sport route established in March of 2013 (route “A” in the photo below) that is roughly the same length as Snake Watching. The other routes begin approximately 50 more feet to the right and include, from left to right, the three 5.12 sport routes Tits out for the Lads [route 614], The Big Picture [route 615], and Missing Link [route 616], all of which begin atop a large ledge, as well as a 5.11d sport route, Short Attention Span [route 617], which ascends the face just right of the ledge. Farther right there are four traditional climbs: the 2-pitch Junior Achievement (5.8-; route 618), A Chorus Line (5.9 R; route 619), Shibboleth (5.8; route 620), and West Side (Story)(5.6; route 621).

Start_Approach_Trail

The proposed climb would share the same approach as the existing climbs on the west face of Overhang Rock.  Currently, the fastest and most sustainable approach is to take the Bear Canyon Trail west from the Mesa Trail until about 15 feet east of the Shelf Block boulder, then take a climber’s trail southeast up the hill past two distinct boulders to the power-line tower in the talus field. From the tower, head southeast along the lower edge of the upper talus field directly below Overhang Rock to the base of Snake Watching. From the base of Snake Watching, an easy 25-foot scramble up a rock ramp to the south leads to the staging area for the proposed climb, a broad, relatively flat dirt and rock ledge down and left of Honey Badger.

Like the other sport routes on the wall, the descent from the top of the pitch will require rappelling or lowering from a two-bolt anchor station. A 70 m rope will be required, but the applicants do not feel that it is necessary to install a midway anchor, as the climb is slightly shorter than either Snake Watching or Honey Badger, off both of which you can lower from the top with a 70m rope. The descent from the crag back to the Bear Canyon Trail is via the approach trail.

Middle_Line_Staging

The staging area is a dirt/rock area on a rock ramp/ledge at the base of the climb. There is a flat, gravelly area north of the start of the climb (under Snakewatching) where the climber and belayer can leave packs, etc.

The applicants have put in several days of reconnaissance work. The initial reconnaissance consisted of constructing a gear anchor at the top of the wall and inspecting the route on rappel to determine the exact line. The applicants returned later and set up a toprope on the proposed climb, Middle Line (route B in the overview photo), using the same gear anchor. Both of the applicants have freed all of the individual sections on the climb but have not freed the line in its entirety; however, the applicants are confident that the climb is similar in difficulty to its neighbors on the right and left and goes free at the approximate grade of 5.13.

FHRC Overview of the application: Approved

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Approved

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 May 2012 Route Applications

March 23, 2012

Choose Life (5.14-), Seal Rock:

The proposed climb, Choose Life, is on the central south face of Seal Rock, which to date has no bolted climbs save an old anchor at the lip of the wall twenty feet right of the proposed climb. Choose Life was redpointed on toprope in 2002, and takes a clean, striking line up an overhanging black streak on one of the steepest parts of the face. It is a 95-foot climb that begins with an arching 5.12a crack-like feature before traversing left (5.12-) into the streak proper; from there, unrelenting 5.13 and 5.13+ climbing follows the streak to the top of the wall. The applicants propose using at most eleven protection bolts, plus an additional two bolts with rings-and-chain at the anchor; a mixture of traditional and bolted protection can be used on the initial thirty feet, after which the climb offers no opportunities for natural gear. Given the sustained nature of the climbing and paucity of clipping stances on the top half, some of the bolts will have to be somewhat widely spaced—more than a body length apart—as a matter of course, though the route will still be absolutely safe.

The south face of Seal Rock is at present home to three other climbs: Jade Gate (5.11b, traditional), Skin Flute (5.12-, toprope/traditional), and Primate (5.13 toprope/traditional). Jade Gate and Skin Flute are 15 feet apart on the lower wall; Primate sits 100 feet uphill (west) from those; and the start of Choose Life is 30 feet uphill from the start of Primate. There is also an anchor at the lip of the wall between Primate and Choose Life that was installed in the late 1980s before the bolting ban, in anticipation of establishing a sport climb on the face below.

The approach is via the designated but unsigned Harmon Cave Trail, an OSMP Trail that leaves the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon and heads west to the eponymous cave. From the cave, a designated climber-access path heads south toward Seal Rock, and has traditionally been used to access the east- and north-face climbs. Where this trail hits the northeast toe of the rock, a 100-yard spur trail switches back south along the base of the Seal Pup to a saddle at the bottom of Seal Rock’s south face. From here a gently inclined gully leads up along the south face below the climbs. The staging area at the base of the climb is comprised of compact brown soil mixed with talus-sized rocks. It is flat or gradually inclined, with one large (car-sized) boulder embedded in the gully down and slightly to climber’s right of the start of the route.

The descent will be via a lower-off from the top of the climb, which deposits you back at the staging area.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Approved

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January 2013 Route Applications

September 10, 2012

Tufa Route 5.14, South Face of Seal Rock

The proposed climb, Tufa Route, is on the central south face of Seal Rock, which to date has three traditional/toprope climbs and one sport route, Choose Life (August 2012), which shares the same start—first three bolts—as Tufa Route. Where Choose Life heads left along the large left-leaning black streak past its third bolt, Tufa Route heads straight up an extruded tufa feature/brown water streak that splits into twin tufa features to the top of the wall. Choose Life and Tufa Route would be twenty-five feet apart at their top anchors and do not share any holds once they diverge, to move farther and farther apart. There would be ten new lead bolts to a double-bolt anchor at the top of the wall, making for 13 lead bolts  total (counting the first three on Choose Life).

Tufa Route features a very difficult, thin, crimpy boulder problem past the proposed fourth bolt to sustained climbing on laybacks and sloping pods, followed by a good rest in a heart-shaped hueco at mid-height. From the rest it moves right along the right of the twin tufas on good holds that quickly diminish to sloping sidepulls interspersed with the occasional crimp. The climbing is sustained, technical, and bouldery all the way to the final two bolts, where the difficulty backs off to 5.12/12+. There are multiple hard cruxes throughout the climb, which is continuously overhanging with only the one rest. The rock is good throughout, though due to the difficult of staying into the overhanging (110-degree) wall on toprope to clean, a few small friable flakes will need to be removed when equipping the climb.

All reconnaissance work that can be done has, including inspection on rappel and on toprope. The top of the route had anchors installed in the late 1980s, before the bolting ban, by Colin Lantz. Lantz never returned to attempt or equip the climb, so it saw no activity until 2012 though the anchor bolts have remained. There is zero potential for natural gear, and the route would need to be bolted to be viable as a lead climb. Also, the anchors need to be moved up and left about eight feet, both for purity of line and for better rope management when lowering. Lantz’ existing anchors would then be removed and the holes patched.

Due to the severely overhanging nature of the rock, a consistent 110-degree wall, and the severity of the sequences (small size of the holds) it was difficult to stay in in multiple sections and work every move. There were also only five spots for marginal directional gear in 85 feet, which made it hard to stay in to the rock, though the applicants did their best. About half the climb has been done free, where you could stay in near the directional gear, and  the applicants are confident upon inspecting and grabbing all the available holds that the route provides enough features to be freed in its entirety.

The south face of Seal Rock is at present home to four other climbs: Jade Gate (5.11b, traditional), Skin Flute (5.12-, toprope/traditional), Primate (5.13 toprope/traditional), and Choose Life (5.14- sport). Jade Gate and Skin Flute are 15 feet apart on the lower wall; Primate sits 100 feet uphill (west) from those; and the start of Choose Life/Tufa Route is 30 feet uphill from the start of Primate.

The approach is via the designated but unsigned Harmon Cave Trail, an OSMP Trail that leaves the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon and heads west to the eponymous cave. From the cave, a designated climber-access path heads south toward Seal Rock, and has traditionally been used to access the east- and north-face climbs. Where this trail hits the northeast toe of the rock, a 100-yard spur trail switches back south along the base of the Seal Pup to a saddle at the bottom of Seal Rock’s south face. From here a gently inclined gully leads up along the south face below the climbs. The descent will be via a lower-off from the top of the climb, which deposits you back on the big rock and gully below the climb. The staging area at the base of the climb is comprised of compact brown, gravely soil with minimal/no vegetation. The area is flat and well contained with little to no potential for erosion. There is one large (car-sized) boulder embedded in the gully down and slightly to climber’s right of the start of the route.  As mentioned, the staging area is the same as for the existing climb Choose Life, and no additional staging impact will be created by the addition of the Tufa Route.

FHRC Overview of the application: Approved

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Approved

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Honey Badger 5.12+/13-, west face of Overhang Rock

The proposed climb, Honey Badger, takes a more or less direct line up the vertical to overhanging west face of Overhang Rock ~80 feet right of the existing climb Snake Watching, punching through a series of tiered roofs to a wild and steep finish at the top of the wall. Like Snake Watching, Honey Badger is approximately 40 meters long and will require a midway anchor for lowering. The applicants propose to use 19 bolts total: 15 lead-protection bolts, as well as four additional bolts for the two anchors—a midway and a top anchor. The climb accesses the face at an obvious weakness in the lower purple band using good holds (5.10) at the top of the rock ramp leading to the broad ledge bisecting the west face of Overhang Rock. From there, the climb follows a steep arete, featuring 11+ moves on good edges, to a sloping ledge offering an almost no-hands rest, where the applicants will place a midway anchor. This first pitch will be five bolts long. From the ledge, the climb goes straight up the steep face, with engaging and technical climbing through a series of roofs to a good jug about two-thirds of the way up. Leaving the jug, one encounters the first of two distinct crux sections, with powerful moves on impeccable pockets and edges over a roof and up a steep, technical headwall to another jug. Big moves on amazing jugs lead you over the next few roof tiers to another, final 12/12+ boulder problem on crimps and sidepulls. This final pitch will be ten bolts long.

The applicants have put in several days of reconnaissance work. The initial reconnaissance consisted of constructing a gear anchor at the top of the wall and inspecting the route on rappel to determine the exact line. The applicants returned later and set up a toprope on the proposed climb, Honey Badger,using the same gear anchor. Both of the applicants have freed all of the individual sections on the climb but have not freed the line in its entirety; however, the applicants are confident that the climb goes free at the approximate grade of 5.12+/13-.

The applicants propose using fifteen protection bolts, plus two additional two bolt anchors with rings-and-chain for the midway anchor and top anchor. There is a natural gear anchor available at the bottom of the climb for the belayer, and one opportunity for natural gear in the first fifteen feet of the climb, after which no natural protection is available. The applicants feel that this is the minimum number of bolts to safely protect the climb given the length. Overall, the route is on very solid rock featuring a variety of holds and movement with only a few loose flakes that will require minor cleaning to make the route safe as a lead climb. The applicants have freed all the moves on Honey Badger, avoiding the loose rock, and are confident that any minor cleaning will not affect the route’s grade or aesthetics.

There are currently nine established routes on the west face of Overhang Rock. Snake Watching (sport, 5.13a; route 613 in the photo below) is the leftmost route on the wall and is separate from the rest of the routes. It is also the tallest route on the wall, ascending 40 meters up the face through the tiered roof system at the top of the wall. The other routes begin approximately 100 feet to the right and include, from left to right, the three 5.12 sport routes Tits out for the Lads [route 614], The Big Picture [route 615], and Missing Link [route 616], all of whichbegin atop a large ledge, as well as a 5.11d sport route, Short Attention Span [route 617], which ascends the face just right of the ledge. Farther right there are four traditional climbs: the 2-pitch Junior Achievement (5.8-; route 618), A Chorus Line (5.9 R; route 619), Shibboleth (5.8; route 620), and West Side (Story)(5.6; route 621).

The proposed climb would share the same approach as the existing climbs on the west face of Overhang Rock. Currently, the fastest and most sustainable approach is to take the Bear Canyon trail west from the Mesa Trail until about 15 feet east of the Shelf Block boulder, then take a climber’s trail southeast up the hill past two distinct boulders to the power-line tower in the talus field. From the tower, head southeast along the lower edge of the upper talus field directly below Overhang Rock to the base of Snake Watching.  From the base of Snake Watching, an easy 50-foot scramble up a rock ramp to the south leads to the base of the proposed climb, which is a relatively flat monolithic rock surface.

Like the other sport routes on the wall, the descent from the top of the pitch will require rappelling or lowering from a two-bolt anchor station. Due to the length of the proposed climb (~40 meters), it will be necessary to descend by either lowering or rappelling from the anchor at the top of the route to a midway anchor at the ledge at about 50 feet, even with a 70-meter rope. From the midway anchor it is a 50-foot lower or rappel to the ground. The descent from the crag back to the Bear Canyon Trail is via the approach trail.

The staging area is a rock ramp at the base of the climb. There is a flat, gravelly area north of the start of the climb where the climber and belayer can leave packs, etc. A small platform with a bomber gear anchor is available for the belayer directly beneath the climb, which would allow him to comfortably see the climber above.

FHRC Overview of the application: Approved

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Approved

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Americana Nouveau 5.14/14+, South Face of Seal Rock

Upper_South_Face_Small

The proposed route, Americana Nouveau (5.14/14+), is on the central-south face of the Seal Rock formation, about 30-40 feet west of the wall’s single existing sport climb, Choose Life (5.13+; August 2012) and up the gully from the wall’s three traditional/toprope routes: Primate (5.13), Skin Flute (5.12-), and Jade Gate (5.11). The base of this proposed climb is reached utilizing the same approach trail as for Choose Life and the other climbs on this side of Seal Rock.

Full_Route_Bolts

The south face of Seal Rock currently hosts four other climbs: Jade Gate (5.11b, traditional), Skin Flute (5.12-, toprope/traditional), Primate (5.13 toprope/traditional), and Choose Life (5.13+ sport). Jade Gate and Skin Flute are 15 feet apart on the lower south face; Primate sits 100 feet uphill (west) from those, while the start of Choose Life (and another route proposed for this same FHRC cycle, Tufa Route—above) is 30 feet uphill from the start of Primate. The proposed route, Americana Nouveau, would begin 30-40 feet uphill (west) from Choose Life, making it the farthest climb west on this central sector.

Lower_Section_Bolts

This route has been thoroughly inspected over the course of multiple days via toprope. Some sections of rock will need minor cleaning, including the strategic removal of select loose flakes in the lower area and a little near the top, but the stone is generally very solid and good quality throughout. The climb begins by meandering through a series of compact, overlapping sandstone layers before moving, at around the 30-foot mark, into typical Flatirons conglomerate for the remainder of the climb. The climbing to this lithologic change is estimated to be in the 5.13- difficulty range. From here, the climb enters into the severely difficult crux section, moving through interesting, sculpted holds up a black streak of water-hardened rock. After pulling over a bulge-like feature at 80 feet, the difficulty eases off slightly for the remaining 30 feet before the proposed anchor at the ~110 foot mark.

Due to the severely overhanging nature of this section of cliff, the paucity of directional gear, and the sheer difficulty of this route, only certain sections have been freed on toprope. However, after careful inspection over the days spent attempting the line, usable and solid features between the toproped sections and throughout the climb give the equipper good reason to believe that the climb is free-able in its entirety, its difficulty predicted to be in the 5.14/5.14+ range. The applicant has climbed and established multiple climbs of this grade throughout the United States, and is confident that American Nouveau is viable as a free climb. There is no possibility of reliable natural gear, and thus the applicant wishes to protect the climb with 15 five-piece Power stainless-steel expansion bolts of half-inch diameter and at least 2.75” in length. Finally,  this sport climb will be equipped with stainless-steel ring-and-chain lowering anchors at 110 feet (34 meters), which will lower the climber to a location just adjacent to the staging ground, about 25 feet away on top of a boulder. It will be mandatory to use a 70-meter rope.

A close-up of the top third of the route, showing the last six clips and lowering anchors at the top of the wall (~110 feet).

The approach is via the designated but unsigned Harmon Cave Trail, an OSMP Trail that leaves the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon and heads west to the eponymous cave. From the cave, a designated climber-access path heads south toward Seal Rock, and has traditionally been used to access the east- and north-face climbs.

Where this trail hits the northeast toe of the rock, a 100-yard spur trail switches back south along the base of the Seal Pup formation to a saddle at the bottom of Seal Rock’s south face. From here, a gently inclined gully leads up along the south face below the climbs.

Staging area for Americana Nouveau is the closer circle; farther circle is the staging area for Choose Life.

The staging area is flat, meaning that little to no erosion will occur. The area is silty, rocky soil beneath the overhang, with a small patch of Oregon grape to the side of the boulder/s you’ll belay from. A climber’s trail already exists connecting the staging area for American Nouveau to that of Choose Life, and from there down the gully to the main approach trail.

 

Harmon Cave cutoff from the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon.

FHRC Overview of the application: Approved

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Approved

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Approach trail along the Seal Pup up to the saddle below the south face of Seal Rock

August 2012 Route Applications

August 6, 2012

Hueco Wall (5.12/12+), Maiden South Face:

The Hueco Wall climbs the stunning, highly-hueco’d steep face up the center of the south face of the Maiden. It could be climbed in three pitches (45 ft, 80 ft, and 80 ft) or two longer pitches.  It starts directly below the end of the first pitch of the South Face (SF) route and climbs up to the same anchor, overlapping with the SF 1st pitch in the last 15 feet.   No bolts would be used anywhere near this overlap as adequate existing natural protection (and an existing fixed piton) are present.  The existing 1st pitch SF anchor consists of slings around a rock horn and carabiners, though other solid, natural protection is also available in this same area. The fixed slings and biners are commonly used for rappelling the South Face Route.

The South Face route starts downhill and to the right (east) approximately 60 feet and traverses left to finish at this same belay, while the start of the Kor Dalke route is uphill and to the west approximately 50 feet.  The somewhat obscure (andunrepeated) Eye of the Storm also begins from the same first pitch SF belay, though traverses hard left to a large “mitten” flake feature.  It apparently goes up the right side of the mitten flake (we recently observed fixed slings in that crack) and continues traversing up and left.  At one point, the Hueco Wall line comes within about 10 feet of this flake, though only briefly.   The wall has 5 existing traditional routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.12a.  From left to right (west to east), the routes are Gates of Galas (5.10d R), the Kor-Dalke (12a R), Eye of the Storm (5.9 X), the South Face (5.8 PG-13), and South Crack (5.11b). All of these existing routes and the proposed route are shown in the photo here.

The approach is the standard Maiden established trail to the south face climbs.  The trail involves leaving the Mesa Trail near an old quarry north of Shadow Canyon, following the quarry road to the north for a few hundred yards, then following a small climber trail (see photo below) up to the eastern toe of the Maiden.  This narrow trail is mostly dirt and rocks and is in good shape and appears stable.  The base of the south face of the Maiden is approximately 1 mile from the fork off the Mesa Trail.

The proposed route would end (atop its third pitch) at a double-bolt anchor down off the summit ridge, out of view of the East Ridge; one could either lower from here back to the pitch-two anchor or continue up and finish with an easy 5.6 section to the summit. When descending from atop the second pitch, an approximate 80-foot rappel would be required to get down to the first-pitch South Face rappel anchor. Another 50-foot rappel would be required to get back to the ground and base of the route.  It might be possible to lower from the second-pitch anchor with a 70-m rope though this has not been tested. The route should require about 25-26 bolts total: 4 lead bolts on the first section/pitch; 8 lead bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor on the second pitch; and 9/10 lead bolts on the third pitch to a 2-bolt anchor.

The base of the climb is rocky but includes some bushes and trees, and there is little or no existing erosion. We recommend using the same rocky staging area as for the SF route, as the very base of the climb is a narrow rocky gully bordered by trees.   The photo below shows the proposed staging area and the start of the climb can be seen in that shady gully approximately 30 feet behind the seated climber.

Reconnaissance work has been completed over four different days and the rock is extremely clean in general, though some potentially friable rock exists in the first 10 feet of the second pitch above the belay anchor atop pitch one of the South Face.  The route has been toproped, and all but the last 15 feet or so of the second pitch was free climbed, due to a lack of directional anchors to hold us into the wall when we fell.  The first pitch went free at about 5.9 and the second pitch is 5.11 to our highpoint.  Rigging of the toprope was tricky and required directional gear placements that were difficult to set due to the overhanging nature of the rock in that area.  Obvious holds were present in the last 15 feet of the second pitch, though it was difficult to toprope this part due to the swing potential based on available directionals.  While not able to free-climb the last few feet due to challenging toprope conditions, we believe that the finish of the second pitch would be in the 5.11+/5.12- range.  Only small portions of the third pitch were climbed free due to large swings when falling on toprope and lack of available directionals.  We estimate the third pitch to be rated somewhere in the 5.12 range, and obvious holds were present throughout the line shown in the photos. Due also to the overhanging nature of the rock above our proposed second-pitch anchor, it will be necessary to drill one or two holes and place one or two bolts on the third pitch to get in and safely install this anchor the first time down, as well as to toprope the third pitch. We will endeavor to place the bolts in obvious clipping stances; barring that, we’ll use removable Triplex bolts. Any temporary bolts would then be removed, and the holes patched and camouflaged.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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January 2012 FHRC Applications

January 2, 2012

Pogo Lord:  5.12+, new climb, the Slab, Fern Canyon

Description

Establish a new, 100-foot sport climb graded 5.12+ on the center-left side of the West Face of the Slab. The climb will have thirteen total lead bolts, a two-bolt top anchor, and a midway anchor for rope-drag management and that lets climbers do only the 5.11c first pitch if they so choose.

Detailed Description

The climb, Pogo Lord, is on the center-left west face of the Slab, 30 feet right of the start of the Whipping Post/Trad Kreem and 15-20 feet left of the existing climb Pen 15. This pitch, on excellent rock, overhangs severely along its length and has been freed on toprope at 5.12+. Pogo Lord has no opportunities for reliable natural protection along its 30-meter (100-foot) length, and the applicants would like to place thirteen protection bolts as well as two sets of anchors (4 bolts total), one at the top of the wall and one at the midpoint (15 meters). The applicants propose this latter midway anchor, atop the first pitch (5.11c), both to address rope-drag issues for those wishing to break the climb into two pitches as well as to provide a lowering anchor for the first pitch and for an alternate first pitch on the left (to be applied for later) that they have also toproped at mid-5.11.

This midpoint anchor would allow for two new pitches of a more moderate/warm-up grade at the Slab, where to date the range has been almost exclusively 5.12 to 5.13. On the whole, Pogo Lord in its entirety climbs good, solid, featured rock on overhanging dinner plates (5.11d/12a; the first eleven bolts) to a crux encounter (5.12c) on small crimpers at the final two bolts.

 The approach is via a designated but unsigned climber-access trail, the standard approach to the north/west face of the Slab, which leaves the Fern Canyon Trail about a quarter mile up from the Y-junction at the mouth of the canyon. The Slab-access trail heads south through the trees past two large boulders, crosses a talus field, and deposits you at the northwest corner of the formation. This climb is then two minutes up along the west face on a slightly uphill cliffbase climber trail traditionally used to access all the existing west-face climbs. The descent will be via a lower-off from the top of the climb, which deposits you back at the staging area. The staging area at the base of the climb is comprised of compact red soil mixed with scree- and talus-sized rocks. It is flat or gradually inclined, with a series of large boulders embedded 10 feet out from the cliff base (one, flat durable rock surface is convenient for toprope belaying) and some small pine trees here and there well off to the sides. It is contiguous with the staging areas for other west-face climbs including Whipping Post, Trad Kreem, Pen 15, and Super Kreem.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Hot if You’re Not: 5.11c, reinstall bolt on existing climb, Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Description

Re-install the chopped first bolt on the existing sport climb Hot if You’re Not, a 5.11c on the west face of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain.

Detailed Description

This is an existing (at present) three-bolt 5.11 face climb on the west face of Der Zerkle. The first bolt was removed by parties unknown some time in the late 1980s or early 1990s, leaving the 11c crux, a fifteen-foot boulder problem beginning off the ground, over a sloping landing with rocks and a retaining-wall timber, completely unprotected. As it stands, the current first bolt is approximately twenty-five feet off the ground.

While the current first bolt can be reached by an unprotected 5.8 traverse from the left along a flake, most climbers will likely be deterred by either of the current options: soloing the boulder problem; or doing the aforementioned 5.8 traverse, clipping the current first bolt, and lowering off to do the direct boulder problem (crux start) on toprope. The route is an existing route that has been led by the applicant with and without the missing first bolt and has been toproped by the applicant and hundreds of other climbers

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Wing Ding: 5.10, reinstall existing climb, Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Description

Re-install the chopped four-bolt sport climb Wing Ding on the west face of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain, as well as put back in its chopped top anchor.

Detailed Description

This is an existing 5.10 face climb that once had four bolts protecting it as well as a double-bolt top anchor. All four bolts and the two top-anchor bolts were removed at some point in the late 1980s by parties unknown. The climb has remained a toprope problem since then.

It is a fun moderate climb on solid rock, up good huecos, edge, and hornlike features. The route is an existing route that has been led by the applicant when the bolts were in place and toproped by the applicant and hundreds of other climbers.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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“Bar Gnar” (working title): 5.9+/10-, new climb, Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Description

Install a new four-bolt sport climb, with a double-bolt anchor, on the left side of the west face of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain.

Detailed Description

The proposed climb, “Bar Gnar” (5.9+), parallels the existing route Bar None (5.9) about ten feet to its right, and the existing traditional climb Der Furhrer (5.8) about twelve feet to its left. It is on the upper left (northwest) end of the West Face of Der Zerkle, on Dinosaur Mountain just off the Mallory Cave Trail. The applicant proposes placing four protection bolts, as well as a double-bolt anchor up and over the lip to climber’s right from the existing anchor on Bar None. Having an independent anchor will reduce anchor/lowering/toproping bottlenecks on this section of the wall.

“Bar Gnar” moves up a thin seam at the start to a first clip twelve feet up, after which you encounter a 5.9+ face crux on thin edges. Above this you can place a small TCU (Metolus No. 1 or 0) and or an RP/Stopper in the seam out left to protect a moderate mantel move onto the ledge. Above the ledge, the climb moves up solid, sustained red-brown stone on huecos and crimper edges at 5.9+/10a. It is an aesthetic, solid moderate climb in keeping with the difficulty and quality of the other routes on the wall, which is quite popular with climbers looking for Flatirons routes in the 5.7-to-5.11 range. The route has been toproped by the applicant and several other climbers in his party, as well FHRC representatives. It climbs a nice, clean red-brown face with no loose rock.

Bar Gnar does have some proximity to the existing climbs Bar None (sport) and Der Fuhrer (trad), though it is not a squeeze job; Bar Gnar’s protection bolts should not affect the nature of the trad climb Der Fuhrer, especially if the second bolt, above the ledge, is situated as far left as is reasonable. At its start, Der Fuhrer climbs the huecoed and rippled face right of the small pine tree in the photo below, while Bar Gnar begins well to its left; the only possible proximity is at the roof/bulge above the mid-height ledge. Above the break/ledge, Der Furhrer stays in a trough-like feature right of the upper headwall and then steps right again into a wide crack, while “Bar Gnar” tackles the headwall directly, with the climbing on the two routes becoming farther apart the higher you climb.

The descent will be via a lower-off anchor, directly back to the staging area. The base is the top (northwest) end of the climber-access trail and the standard cliff-base staging area, a durable, semi-flat surface of hardpacked dirt and rock with trees all around.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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September 2011 Applications

September 23, 2011

Tracks Are for Kids, 5.10b (Dinosaur Tracks), southwest spur of Dinosaur Rock

Description

Add five bolts to the existing toproute route Tracks Are for Kids and move the anchor into a more logical place at (and not over) the lip.
Area
Lower southwest face of Dinosaur Rock, immediately left of Big Bob Cranks.

Detailed Description

The existing toprope anchor bolts and chains for Tracks Are for Kids (and the existing 5.9+ lead climb Big Bob Cranks, to the right) were installed years ago and placed in a rope-eating site back over the lip. The applicant proposes to move these anchors down to a more logical, cleaner-handling stance at the lip as well as to turn the 5.10 toprope into a lead climb. The proposed route is independent and takes a very direct line from the base of the wall to the 2-bolt anchor. The first bolt is about 15 feet up, clippable from an easy ledge stance.  Subsequent bolts are spaced to protect the steep (slightly overhanging) and sustained climbing (5.10b/c) on solid pockets and huecos. Tracks Are For Kids is probably the best of the three climbs—the two existing lead climbs being Big Bob Cranks and the short 5.10+ Triceratops Tracks, down and right—on the wall. It’s a mystery as to why the protection bolts were not installed with the anchor bolts.

The staging area is in a steep gully with some natural erosion at the cliff base and little vegetation, reached via a scramble-down from the southern facet of Dinosaur Rock. Erosion along the scramble-down could be mitigated by sticking to rock slabs.

Comments:

Yes, approve bolts and relocation of anchor.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Big Bob Cranks, 10a, Dinosaur Rock, Dinosaur Mountain

Description:

I propose installing anchor bolts with chains/rings directly above the end of the primary difficulties on Big Bob Cranks in order to avoid approximately 20 feet of low-angle slab climbing that is out of line (rising traverse) and character with the rest of the pitch.

Area:

Lower southwest face of Dinosaur Rock, Dinosaur Mountain.

Detailed Description:

The existing route, Big Bob Cranks (5.10a, 2-stars, 5 bolts, 70’, probable late 80’s/early 90’s FA, unknown party) climbs through five bolts. Climbing from the ground to the fourth bolt is direct and sustained at the 5.8 – 5.10 level on vertical to overhanging terrain. The climber then leaves the steep face and pulls onto the low-angle slab of the south face and ascends the slab (5.4-5.5) for approximately 10’ to clip the fifth bolt and then ascends another 10′ up the slab (5.4/5.5) to the 2-bolt chain-anchor atop Tracks Are For Kids (10b, 2-stars, top-rope anchors only, 55’, probable late 80’s/early 90’s TR FA, unknown party).

This chain-anchor is set far back on the low-angle slab and causes damaging rope-drag when lowering or top-roping Big Bob Cranks or Tracks Are For Kids. 3’ slings must be used. The anchor bolts are old, rusted and, at the very least, will be removed and relocated to reduce rope-drag while TR’ing Tracks Are For Kids. Note that another application has been submitted on this page to install five protection bolts to turn Tracks into a safe lead climb.

I propose placing anchor bolts directly above the end of the main difficulties found on the vertical wall. Eliminating 20’ of 5.4 – 5.5 climbing does not alter the primary character of the route. The new location will permit unhindered lowering and top-roping without damaging a rope. I will use ½” x 2 ¾” camouflaged, stainless steel bolts and hangers. Lowering chains/rings will also be camouflaged.

Comments:

Yes to new anchor.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Sick for Sleeping (REVISED), 5.11c, the Slab, Fern Canyon

Description

Install an eight-bolt face climb on the west face of the Slab, 15 feet right of the existing climb Hippopotamus (5.10d).

Area
West face of the Slab, right of the Undertow Ledge

Detailed Description:

The proposed route is on the West Face of the Slab, 15 feet right of the existing climb Hippopotamus. It is a 75-foot 5.11c and has been redpointed on toprope. The route starts just right of the approach ledge to Undertow. At the ledge there is an obvious spot for a first bolt to protect the leader from a ground fall at the first 5.7 bulge (no opportunity for natural gear); since the initial application in June, this bolt has been repositioned such that the rope and belayer won’t hinder anyone crossing the lower ledge to access Undertow. Above this bolt there is a short section of low-angled rock and a second bolt protecting moderate climbing leading to a ledgy band and then the upper wall, where the 5.11 climbing begins in earnest.

The next 50 feet to the anchor uses 6 bolts, climbing with 5.11b/c moves past 3 bolts to a good rest and a fourth bolt, then an 11a/b crux past a final 2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

This route will be a worthwhile addition to the West Face of The Slab, and the applicant proposes to use half-inch stainless-steel hardware. At 11c it fills in a gap for easier routes on a formation at present weighted toward 5.12/5.13 climbs. It climbs an independent line 15 feet away from the nearest route, Hippotamus (10d). The climbing is on mostly solid edges and pockets with aesthetic movement up a slightly overhanging section of tan and brown rock. The route needs minimal cleaning and the staging area is along the existing cliff-base trail.

Comments:

Yes, approve this new route.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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New, Lower First Bolt, Touch Monkey, 5.11b, Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Description

Add a new, lower first bolt to the existing climb Touch Monkey

Area

West face of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Detailed Description

Touch Monkey (5.11b) is located on the west face of the lower tier of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain. The climb begins with 20 feet of 5.10 climbing, and then encounters a tricky 5.11 overhanging bulge to the anchors.  The first bolt is located 20 feet above the ground in the overhanging section, and is only clippable from a very awkward stance, by reaching out into the overhang while unprotected from a groundfall. (There is the possibility for a very marginal small TCU and slinged thread, through a fragile hole in the rock, but neither option comes until you’re almost to the bolt and neither should be relied upon to prevent a groundfall.)  The scary first clip deters people from doing this climb, and is risky for those not comfortable at the grade.

Applicant proposes adding a new, lower bolt at approximately 12’ above the ground, or 8’ below the existing first bolt, on a vertical panel before you move into the roof.  The bolt would be placed such that the lower awkward 5.10 stand-up move would be protected, as would the stretch-out to clip the first bolt in the overhang.  This addition will make Touch Monkey significantly safer and more enjoyable to users, and bring the total number of bolts to five, which is appropriate for a 50-foot climb. It will also give good protection for shorter climbers as they stretch for the high first clip, in the roof, as well as provide a backup against any potential groundfall should the original first bolt fail. The applicant has spoken to the first ascentionist, Paul Glover, and he approves adding the lower first bolt.

Comments:

No, do not add a bolt.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
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New, Lower First Bolt, Short Attention Span, 11d, Overhang Rock, Bear Canyon

Description

We propose adding one new protection bolt between the ground and the current first bolt on Short Attention Span to protect against groundfalls.

Area

Overhang Rock, Bear Canyon

Detailed Description

Short Attention Span is located on the west face of Overhang Rock. The climb, a 5.11d and the easiest sport route on the wall, ascends the vertical, lichen-streaked face on the south end of the face. Short Attention Span’s first bolt is located approximately 25’ above the ground and involves unprotected 5.10 climbing to reach the clipping stance. Some of the holds below this first clip are less than bomber and could possibly snap. The landing zone consists of first hitting the lower-angled slab at the beginning of the pitch, and then a large, sharp flake with a wide crack and large boulders. A groundfall would most likely land a climber in the ER with bone-breaking injuries and/or lacerations. Such a potentially injurious runout is out of character with the remainder of the pitch, other sport-routes on the W Face of Overhang Rock and Flatirons, bolt-protected climbing in general. We have spoken with at least four people who have climbed the route, three of whom were leading and are 5.12-and-up climbers, and all strongly supported an additional bolt to protect against a groundfall. Some climbers competent at the grade choose not to lead Short Attention Span because of the risk.

We propose adding a bolt at approximately 16′ to avoid a groundfall — you would climb unprotected 5.8 to this point then the bolt would protect 5.10 face moves getting to the original first bolt. This addition will make the climb significantly safer and more enjoyable. It will also allow climbers at the 5.11 level at least one route at the crag they can climb safely. For those who are pursuing the other climbs on the wall, the extra bolt will make Short Attention Span a much nicer warm-up. The first ascent party approves of adding a new bolt.

Comments:

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
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June 2011 Applications

May 26, 2011

Patience Face (5.12a), North Face of Dinosaur Rock, Dinosaur Mountain

The proposed route, Patience Face (5.12a), is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock, and will share the first five bolts of climbing with the existing climb The Shaft before moving right onto a wide black streak that runs to the top of the wall. The staging area is 40 feet down and off the trail, a flat spot among the trees that is also used for The Shaft. The route is 35 meters (114 feet) in length and has been redpointed on top-rope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. Patience Face offers no cracks or reliable traditional/natural gear placements, and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. The new route will consist of a total of 15 stainless steel, half-inch bolts: five existing bolts on the lower half of The Shaft, then eight new protection bolts and two new anchor bolts.

Patience Face starts out with a 5.11/11+ sequence (shared with The Shaft) to cross a hanging flake into the groove, then climbs more 5.11/11+ climbing up the groove, over a small roof, and up a clean face to a no-hands rest in a large pod. The climb then moves out the right side of the pod onto a twisting black streak/extruded tufa feature that trends up and right, away from the top half of The Shaft, gradually deviating from 10 to 30 feet away from The Shaft. The climb has two 5.12- cruxes at mid-height before another resting pod, then steps right and trends right again along a ramp before summiting the wall via a crux bulge (5.11+12-). The climb will require a 70-meter rope, but given that the climbing remains sustained to the top — and that all other routes established on Dinosaur Rock, including the 35-meter Ultrasaurus, also go to the top of the wall — the applicants do not recommend ending the climb sooner simply for convenience’s sake.

The rock quality is excellent, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean. The rock has a black water polish and is very solid and compact. The shared start of Patience Face and The Shaft is the only safe and logical start on this part of the wall, which otherwise has friable rock down low.

The route offers sustained, outstanding, shady 5.12- climbing on perfect stone without compromising any existing routes or adding impact to the crag base – it’s directly off the Mallory Cave Trail on a rock approved for new routes, and will share the staging area with The Shaft, an already existent line. The climbing is athletic and gymnastic in nature; having a good 5.12- here will add to the destination qualities of Dinosaur Mountain, with the existing 5.10s and 5.11s on Der Zerkle only a minute’s hike away.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Trad Kreem (5.10-) Piton Upgrade, the Slab, Fern Canyon

The crux of the route Trad Kreem (5.10-) is currently protected by an old fixed piton in questionable rock, with possible severe consequences if the piton pulls out. The applicant proposes to either replace that piton with a new piton, or to place a bolt nearby and remove the piton. As far as recorded history goes, the first known ascent of the Trad Kreem corner was likely done by Chris Beh and Owen Silver in 2010. However, when they started up the route, there was an old fixed piton in a crack near the base of the route. The piton (a Chouinard/BD baby angle) protects the overhanging 5.10a crux, and failure of the piton would likely cause the leader to hit a large ledge below. It is possible to place a small cam (blue tcu or blue Alien) just below the piton, but it is in the same questionable rock as the piton (see photos).

The applicant used a hammer to test the piton and surrounding rock because it appeared that the rock to the right of the piton was questionable. Tapping on the piton gave a reasonably reassuring ring, but tapping the nearby rock caused some concern. The applicant believes that the two seams shown in the photos contribute to the rock on the right side producing a hollow thud. The piton and the cam rely on the integrity of this flake. The piton holds body weight, and might hold a small fall (such as the one that would occur if you fell making the long move to the end of the crux), but the applicant feels that the piton is marginal at best.

Trad Kreem is a trad route (i.e., requires trad gear) at a crag that is predominately a sport crag, though several of the sport routes here do require a few pieces of gear, so it is not unrealistic for people to bring a light rack. At 5.10-, the route is also easier than most of the routes at the crag, and serves as a decent warm-up for the harder routes in the area. The move protected by the piton is a long 5,10- reach, on steep rock, off small holds. As stated above, if the piton (and/or the cam) pulled out, it is likely that the leader would land on the large ledge below, though perhaps a very attentive belayer might be able to keep you off the ledge using the first bolt on Whipping Post. This, bolt, below the piton, is however not ideally positioned to protect the crux of Trad Kreem, even though you clip it before clipping the piton. It protects a leftward-traversing move on Whipping Post that occurs very close to the bolt, so a ledge fall from that route is much less likely.

The applicant does not have strong feelings about either proposed solution, but is submitting this application to create a discussion that will lead to a reasonable solution. If a bolt is approved, he will place a ½” x 4¾” stainless Powers Bolt, with stainless-steel hanger. The approximate location for the bolt is marked by a dot of chalk in the photos. Exact placement will consider the reach of shorter climbers, to ensure that they can reach the bolt before doing the crux moves.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved pin-for-pin replacement.

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Sick for Sleeping (5.11), the Slab, Fern Canyon

The proposed route is on the West Face of the Slab, 15 feet right of the existing climb Hippopotamus, on the Undertow ledge. It is an 85-foot 5.11c and has been redpointed on toprope. The route starts with about 25 feet of moderate rock (a No. 2 Camalot protects if you wish) that bisects the approach ledge to Undertow. At the ledge there is an obvious spot for a first bolt to protect the leader from a ground fall at the first 5.7 bulge (no opportunity for natural gear). Above this there is a short section of low-angle rock approaching another break/ledge and then the upper wall.

The next 50 feet to the anchor uses 6 bolts, climbing with 5.11a/b moves past 3 bolts to a good rest and a fourth bolt, then the 11c crux past a final 2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

This route will be a worthwhile addition to the West Face of The Slab, and the applicant proposes to use half-inch stainless-steel hardware. At 11c it fills in a gap for easier routes. It climbs an independent line 15 feet away from the nearest route, Hippotamus (10d). The climbing is on mostly solid edges and pockets with aesthetic movement up a slightly overhanging section of rock. The route needs minimal cleaning and the staging area is along the existing trail at the base to the cliff.

FHRC Overview of the application: Postponed until Sep ’11 cycle.

Voting Results: Pending

OSMP Decision: Pending

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
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New 5.13/14, Southwest Arete, the Maiden

October 1, 2010

The proposed route climbs on and near the Maiden’s overhanging southwest arête. The following description accompanies the photo below.

There are two possible ways this route could go. The applicant has inspected the route on rappel and climbed the upper section free. The upper section climbs on the steep face just right of the right arête of the west face. Because of the overhanging angle, it is impossible to inspect and climb the lower section. At the very least the upper portion of the route can be done by climbing the first 25ft. of the West Overhang (using trad gear to protect that section) and then climbing rightwards across the slab to the arete. This is the red line and would require the placement of the two bolts marked in blue. However, it looks like it may be possible to climb the arête (yellow line) directly below the upper line. The feasibility of this can only be determined once the bolts on the upper wall are installed. This direct version is preferred if it goes, and would require the bolts indicated in yellow. In terms of difficulty, the upper section is mid-range 5.13. The traverse (blue bolts) is in the 5.12- range. The direct start, if it goes free, appears to be anywhere from 5.13 to 5.14. The attached image depicts the number of bolts required for each variation.

The applicant’s approach in establishing this climb would be to first install all the bolts on the upper section (red bolts). Once those are installed he’ll be able to determine if the direct line (yellow) is climbable. If he can climb this (yellow) and it is not significantly harder than the upper section, he will install only the yellow bolts and not install those marked with blue. But if the direct start is significantly harder, it could be worth adding the blue bolts to make the upper section of the route accessible at an easier grade. If the direct line does not go, the applicant will install the blue bolts to protect the traverse accessing the upper section.

The staging area for this route is the same as that of the West Overhang. The route is just over 100ft. long and would thus require a 70m rope (unless the second follows the pitch). The nearest bolt on this new route would be approximately 15’ from the West Overhang route and thus would not interfere or cause confusion with that route. The applicant has inspected the route for natural-protection options and found only marginal placements in questionable rock (at the chocolate-colored band at midpoint).

The style of climbing involves steep and very physical pulling on edges and sidepull features. The rock is very sound throughout and will not require much, if any, cleaning.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Pending