August 2014 Route Applications
July 28, 2014
Long Journey, 5.12-, West Face of Pebble Beach, Sacred Cliffs
Pebble Beach, perhaps one of the more “popular” areas of the Sacred Cliffs, includes 15 different routes according to the most recent guidebook. Two traditional routes, Imperfect Offwidth (5.8) and Perfect Hand Crack (5.9+), exist on the north face of Pebble Beach, and are located just left of the proposed climb. The proposed climb, Long Journey (#16 in the overview photo ), is currently a toprope with a 2-bolt anchor at the top, though it is not known when the anchor was installed or who did the first ascent. It more or less follows the blunt northwest arête of the Pebble Beach formation. Immediately right of this proposed bolted climb, from left to right, are Dan and Randy Show (bolted 5.10d), Ray Honed (bolted 5.10c), Mono Ray (top rope 5.10c), Catching Rays (bolted 5.10b), and Ray Ban (top rope 5.10d). All of the sport routes use bolts for protection, with little or no available natural gear.
A few more routes exist on a lower tier below the routes listed above (to the west and south). They are, from left to right, as follows: 98-pound Weakling (5.9 X chopped/TR now), Wide I Do It (trad 5.10a), Wishful Thinking (trad 5.8), Rip Tide (toprope 5.11a), Pebble Beach (5.10a chopped/TR), Crater Beach (5.10a chopped/TR), and Red Tide (5.9 X/solo).
To get to Pebble Beach, take the standard approach to the Sacred Cliffs, following the Green Mountain West Ridge Trail toward the summit of Green Mountain. Just a short distance below the actual summit, perhaps 200 yards below, the climber’s trail forks off right to the south; there is a visible trail and a white sign within view from the main trail. The trail is thin but continuous, and mostly follows the south ridge on dirt or duff, staying just west of the ridge wherever large rock formations are present on the ridge. It’s about a half-mile walk from the main trail to the Pebble Beach crag.
The descent initially involves a rappel off the top of the route (Long Journey), approximately 50 feet to the ground. From there, follow the same approach trail along the ridge back to the West Ridge Trail.
The staging area is a rocky base area with little to no vegetation. Some small talus exists, but mostly large rock slabs are present. Not much soil is present nearby.
All recon work has been completed, and all portions of the route have been climbed on toprope. There is no loose rock anywhere; the natural rock is very clean and sharp! The climbing involves vertical to overhanging crimps in a beautiful position. The rock is crisp, incut, and rather sharp in general. Although the guidebook lists this climb at 5.11c, we thought it was quite a bit harder.
The initial climbing involves powerful 5.10 and 5.11 crimping, followed by a 5.12- cruxy move around a bulge. This is followed by sustained 5.11 crimpy climbing, then a final 5.12- crux near the top, followed by 5.10 slab moves to the anchor. We are proposing 6 bolts to protect the 50 feet of climbing as shown in the following photo — there is no possibility for natural protection. One stray bolt does exist, about 15 feet off the ground — perhaps a partial installation of the climb before the bolting ban. We propose to replace this bolt with what would be the second bolt of the pitch. Overall, it’s a very sustained, high quality climb on bullet rock.
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Passed
OSMP Decision: Pending
PUBLIC COMMENTS: Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.
Big Bruce, 5.12a/b, Southwest Face of the Goose, Fern Canyon
The proposed route is on the southwest face of the Goose, Fern Canyon. The southwest face at present is home to three existing climbs. From left to right they are: Raging Bull (5.12b sport; two pitches); Wild Horses (5.13a sport, with a shared start on the trad route Sweet and Innocent); and Sweet and Innocent (5.10b trad). There is also a new soon-to-be sport climb, Golden Goat, approved by FHRC and OSMP in early 2014, down and right of Sweet and Innocent. The proposed climb, Big Bruce, begins 30 feet left of the sport route Raging Bull, near the juncture of the south and west faces; it is about 30 feet to the right of the staging area for the west-face route Deserted Cities of the Heart (5.9 sport/mixed).
The approach is the standard approach to the south Face of Goose, a well-used, designated but unsigned climber’s trail through forest and talus. The trail begins just above the “Superfresh” block and heads north up the gully along the base of Fiddlehead. After 300 yards it moves right through a talus-notch between Fiddlehead and the East Ridge formation, to cross talus directly east to the southwest face of the Goose.
This will be a sport route with lowering anchors, so no descent trail is required. The climber will lower directly back to the staging area. The base of the proposed route is mostly rock and talus that will not be subject to additional erosion due to use. It is along the existing climber’s approach to the route Raging Bull and along the trail leading to the West Face of The Goose and the route Deserted Cities of the Heart.
The route has been toproped at a grade of 5.12a/b. It has minimal loose rock and will not deteriorate due to use. The climbing starts out with some vertical 5.11 moves to a first overhang with mid-5.11 moves through the roof and a section of vertical rock above. A decent rest can be had at this point before surmounting another roof and the crux section just above, where the climber reaches a third roof. Good holds appear at the lip of the final roof and lead to the proposed anchor above. The route will require 12 protection bolts and 2 bolts for the anchor. There is no opportunity for natural protection, so exclusively bolt protection is recommended.
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Passed
OSMP Decision: Pending
PUBLIC COMMENTS: Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.
Old Chub, 5.12, North Face of the Matron
This route is located on the upper right side of the north face of the Matron, and starts behind a huge flake forming a wide chimney, about 30 feet left of the route Father Knows Best (5.11b). There are a total of 10 existing routes on the north face. Beginning from the eastern end and running uphill and west, they are: East Ridge (5.5 trad), No Stranger to Danger (5.9 R trad), Quiche on a Leash (5.10c trad), Real Men Don’t Eat Quiche (5.11a trad), Pasta Man (5.9 trad), North Face (5.6 trad), North Face Right (5.5 trad), Nordwand (5.7 A3), In Spite of Love (A2), Northwest Crack (5.10c trad), and Father Knows Best (5.11b sport). The proposed climb, Old Chub, starts approximately 20 feet up and right of Northwest Crack and starts about 30 feet left of Father Knows Best; meanwhile, Nordwand and In Spite of Love begin in a large right-facing corner about 60 feet left and downhill of Northwest Crack, and the remaining north face routes are farther downhill to the east and not in the vicinity of the proposed route
Both the nearby Father Knows Best and the old aid route In Spite of Love (A2) finish at the 2-bolt anchor atop the first pitch of the West Face (5.8R). The proposed route would also finish at these anchors, and all three routes converge at the arête about 4-5 feet below these anchors. At the top of the proposed line, the aid crack of In Spite of Love is within 6 to 10 feet in an area where two bolts are proposed. Although said bolts would be far enough away from the aid placements to make if difficult or impractical to reach the bolts from that route, we went ahead and contacted the first ascentionist, Eric Doub. He said he was fine with our proposed bolts and gave us encouragement to develop the new line. The line Father Knows Best is at least 10-15 feet away at all times except for the very top where all three routes converge. Take the standard approach to the Matron. The most direct approach involves hiking out of Eldorado Springs up the Old Mesa Trail to the Shadow Canyon Trail. Take the latter trail a short distance up to the first ravine encountered, and the Matron trail branches off right there. Follow the distinct climber-approach trail (mostly dirt) up another 10 minutes to the eastern toe of the Matron, and a thin trail through talus and dirt paths extends up along the north face to all routes.
The descent initially involves a rappel (about 85 feet) off the top of the first pitch of the West Face, then you can return down along the north-face trail to your backpacks, etc. Follow the same climber’s trail down to the Old Mesa Trail. Very rocky base area with little to no vegetation. A few scattered raspberry canes were present around the base area during mid-July 2014. No “soil” is visible anywhere in the base area; mostly talus and large rock chunks. The standard rappel off the West Face lands in this same area, though it is possible to trend west and rappel to the base of the West Face too (located perhaps 15 yards up and right of the staging/ base area). Because of the vertical nature of the climbing and the availability of natural protection up high to rig directionals, all recon work has been completed and all portions of the route have been climbed on toprope. The route starts by stemming off a huge flake that forms an approximately 40-foot-wide chimney at the base of the north face. Upon pulling onto the face with conglomerate holds, the line trends up and right along for approximately 35 feet along sustained 5.11 knobs and pockets. Then, the holds get much thinner and the climb goes up and left into sustained 5.12- climbing across a smooth face. The rock is extremely clean here and the holds are small but sharp. The climbing largely involves long reaches to decent holds, with little else in between, resulting in lots of high steps, mantel-like moves, and dynos.
Once through this relatively blank section, the climbing trends back right, about 10-12 feet below the roof, and follows easier 5.10 and 5.11 climbing to the arête. Other than a small crack about 35 feet up, there do not appear to be any possibilities for natural protection. As such, we recommend 4 bolts from the ground leading up to the crack, a piece of protection in the ½” to 1” range would be placed next (in the crack), and then 7 more bolts would be used to protect the remaining upper portion of the pitch, which contains no natural protection opportunities. There is little to no loose rock, save some softer rock in the last 5 to 10 feet of the pitch, under which the natural line traverses. Due to the high quality of competent rock present, very little cleaning (mostly a light brushing) would be required for a very clean and safe route. We would also like to replace the existing and aging anchor at the top of the first pitch of the West Face (also used for Father Knows Best and to be shared by this new route) with ½-inch stainless steel bolts, a ring, and chain set for rappelling.
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Passed
OSMP Decision: Pending
PUBLIC COMMENTS: Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.
Dinosaur Jr., 5.10-, West Face of Dinosaur Rock Dinosaur Rock is home to a handful of easy (5.0–5.6) traditional slab routes on the east face; five 5.11+-to-5.13a sport routes on the north face (Pretty in Pinkler, 5.11+; The Shaft, 5.12b; Patience Face, 5.12a; Milk Bone, 5.13a; Ultrasaurus, 5.13a) ; one 5.12- sport route on the upper west face (Pink Man’s Burden, two pitches, 5.12a), and three 5.9–5.10 sport routes (Tracks are for Kids, 5.10; Big Bob Cranks, 5.9+; and Triceratops Tracks, 5.10c) on the lower west face on the semi-separate fin. There are no other routes on the small pinnacle containing the proposed climb, which is in the saddle due west of Dinosaur Rock’s summit. It will be possible to toprope a few variations of the Dinosaur Jr. face from its anchor (pending approval).
To access this climb, follow the Mallory Cave Trail to the point where a short climber’s trail cuts off to the left for the sport climbs on the north face: e.g., The Shaft, Milk Bone, etc. Follow the main Mallory Cave trail up two more switchbacks past here then follow an established climber-approach trail up and south through a notch. This is the trail that leads down to the west-face walk-off and the routes on the lower west face of Dinosaur Rock: Tracks are for Kids, Big Bob Cranks and Triceratops Tracks. An included photo shows the view from the saddle to The Mallory Cave Trail down along this climber’s approach trail. Once you start downhill south from the saddle, it is only 40 more feet on solid rock to reach the base of the proposed climb, Dinosaur Jr.
The climb is in a beautiful south-facing spot overlooking Bear Canyon, but the route won’t be visible from the Mallory Cave Trail. Rapping/lowering from the anchor will land you on an established climbers trail directly back at the base of the route, at the staging area. All recon has been done. The route has been top roped. It is mostly near-vertical face climbing with no opportunity for natural gear placements, and so bolt protection is recommended in the form of four clips (plus possibly one optional/supplemental piece of gear between bolts 1 and 2, over the lip of the roof) to double-bolt anchors. The climbing is reminiscent of Bidoigt (a 5.10a on Der Freischutz) in length and difficulty with the exception of the start.
Dinosaur Jr. has a very unique start. It begins in a cave-like feature and requires some bizarre body positions and techniques to exit the steep cave and reach the face climbing. After exiting the cave, delicate balance and pebble crimping lead up the steepening face. Diagonal rails provide fun sloper holds along the way to a crux bulge about 3/4s of the way up. After the bulge there are some solid gear placements that would be optional since it’s an easy jaunt to the anchor. There is no loose rock and no notable cleaning will be required.
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Passed
OSMP Decision: Pending
PUBLIC COMMENTS: Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.
Proposed New Route, 5.12a, the Goose
January 4, 2014
The proposed route, Golden Goat, is on the south/west face of the Goose, right of Sweet and Innocent. It starts by pulling a small roof onto a steep wall with powerful, reachy moves (5.11-), followed by sustained 5.10 and 5.11- climbing on vertical to slightly overhanging rock with large holds. At the top of the pitch (last 10 feet), the holds get smaller and the angle increases, requiring hard pulling on crimpy holds (5.12a crux).
The rock quality is good, and little or no cleaning is required. There are only a few random natural gear placements near the line, but they are too far away to be used for this pitch, or in some cases are in more friable rock in the dark-brown roof bands. As such, placement of bolts (9 1/2″ by 2.75″ bolts) is recommended for safe lead protection.
The climbing ends on a large ledge just above the last bolt shown on the topo/photo. The proposed route includes 9 new bolts, plus two anchor bolts above the ledge on top of the pitch. The rappel anchor will consist of a bolt with a ring, plus a higher bolt with chain and ring. Climbers will be able to safely rappel or lower from this anchor using a 60-meter rope. Or the party can continue with Sweet and Innocent to the summit of the Goose. If continuing up, traverse left along a 5.7 crack about 15 feet till joining Sweet and Innocent, then follow that route approximately 80 feet to the top. Once back on the ground, reverse the approach hike described below.
There are only three existing routes in the near vicinity of the proposed route (Golden Goat). Golden Goat is a completely independent line located approximately 30 feet right of Sweet and Innocent (5.10), and is roughly 200 feet left of the route Batman (5.10b). Wild Horses (5.13a, a variation finish on Sweet and Innocent) and Raging Bull (5.12b) are also located left of the proposed line, and both share their start with Sweet and Innocent. All of these existing routes are trad with the exception of Raging Bull, which is a bolted sport climb. However, all of these existing trad routes also include bolts in addition to trad gear placements.
The approach as for the East Ridge (of Fern Canyon) is recommended, as a small climbing access trail already exists. This approach trail leaves the main Fern Canyon trail just past the Superfresh Block. After hiking past the lower East Ridge routes, a large gap is encountered at the top (north) end of Fiddlehead… head directly east through this gap and over talus to the Goose. The base of the west face of the Goose is approximately one-half mile (15-minute hike) beyond the point above Superfresh where you leave the main Fern Canyon Trail. The hike is mostly on rock and talus, with very little soil or duff along the way except for near the start when leaving the main trail.
The base of the climb is bedrock outcrops and talus, with no vegetation. There is no soil at all in the vicinity of the base of the route.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Pending
August 2013 Route Applications
August 2, 2013
Middle Line 5.13, West Face of Overhang Rock
The proposed climb, Middle Line takes a more or less parallel line about 15-20 feet to the right of Snake Watching, heading straight up the vertical face before diagonalling up and right through the tiered roofs at the top of the wall. Like Snakewatching and Honey Badger, Middle Line is roughly 35 meters long and will require a 70m rope. The climb accesses the face at an obvious weakness in the lower roof band and contains powerful moves on slopers to reach a jug at the lip. A few more hard moves (5.12-) deposit the climber on the face, at which point the climber follows good edges and pockets up the brown face (5.11) to a very hard thin section (5.13) that ends with an undercling on the right side of the hanging “S” shaped-corner that starts about halfway up the wall. The climb follows the corner rightward to its end, then up the golden face on good holds, veering slightly left to an amazing rippled-jug and green lichen streak. At the top of the green streak, the climb somewhat adjoins the vertical portion of Snake Watching in one spot; however, the applicants do not feel that there will be any overlap, as Middle Line then moves sharply to the right and up through the final tiered roofs, ending with pumpy and powerful climbing to the anchor at the top.
The applicants propose using 15 protection bolts, plus an additional two bolts with rings-and-chain at the anchor, as the climb offers no opportunities for natural gear. The applicants feel that this is the minimum number of bolts to safely protect the climb given the length. Overall, the route is on very solid rock featuring a variety of holds and movement; only minor cleaning of a few small flakes will be needed upon installation of the protection bolts.
There are currently ten established routes on the west face of Overhang Rock. Snake Watching (sport, 5.13a; route 613 in the photo below) is the leftmost route on the wall and is separate from the rest of the routes. Approximately 50 feet right of Snake Watching is Honey Badger, another 5.13a sport route established in March of 2013 (route “A” in the photo below) that is roughly the same length as Snake Watching. The other routes begin approximately 50 more feet to the right and include, from left to right, the three 5.12 sport routes Tits out for the Lads [route 614], The Big Picture [route 615], and Missing Link [route 616], all of which begin atop a large ledge, as well as a 5.11d sport route, Short Attention Span [route 617], which ascends the face just right of the ledge. Farther right there are four traditional climbs: the 2-pitch Junior Achievement (5.8-; route 618), A Chorus Line (5.9 R; route 619), Shibboleth (5.8; route 620), and West Side (Story)(5.6; route 621).
The proposed climb would share the same approach as the existing climbs on the west face of Overhang Rock. Currently, the fastest and most sustainable approach is to take the Bear Canyon Trail west from the Mesa Trail until about 15 feet east of the Shelf Block boulder, then take a climber’s trail southeast up the hill past two distinct boulders to the power-line tower in the talus field. From the tower, head southeast along the lower edge of the upper talus field directly below Overhang Rock to the base of Snake Watching. From the base of Snake Watching, an easy 25-foot scramble up a rock ramp to the south leads to the staging area for the proposed climb, a broad, relatively flat dirt and rock ledge down and left of Honey Badger.
Like the other sport routes on the wall, the descent from the top of the pitch will require rappelling or lowering from a two-bolt anchor station. A 70 m rope will be required, but the applicants do not feel that it is necessary to install a midway anchor, as the climb is slightly shorter than either Snake Watching or Honey Badger, off both of which you can lower from the top with a 70m rope. The descent from the crag back to the Bear Canyon Trail is via the approach trail.
The staging area is a dirt/rock area on a rock ramp/ledge at the base of the climb. There is a flat, gravelly area north of the start of the climb (under Snakewatching) where the climber and belayer can leave packs, etc.
The applicants have put in several days of reconnaissance work. The initial reconnaissance consisted of constructing a gear anchor at the top of the wall and inspecting the route on rappel to determine the exact line. The applicants returned later and set up a toprope on the proposed climb, Middle Line (route B in the overview photo), using the same gear anchor. Both of the applicants have freed all of the individual sections on the climb but have not freed the line in its entirety; however, the applicants are confident that the climb is similar in difficulty to its neighbors on the right and left and goes free at the approximate grade of 5.13.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
PUBLIC COMMENTS: Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.
May 2012 Route Applications
March 23, 2012
Choose Life (5.14-), Seal Rock:
The proposed climb, Choose Life, is on the central south face of Seal Rock, which to date has no bolted climbs save an old anchor at the lip of the wall twenty feet right of the proposed climb. Choose Life was redpointed on toprope in 2002, and takes a clean, striking line up an overhanging black streak on one of the steepest parts of the face. It is a 95-foot climb that begins with an arching 5.12a crack-like feature before traversing left (5.12-) into the streak proper; from there, unrelenting 5.13 and 5.13+ climbing follows the streak to the top of the wall. The applicants propose using at most eleven protection bolts, plus an additional two bolts with rings-and-chain at the anchor; a mixture of traditional and bolted protection can be used on the initial thirty feet, after which the climb offers no opportunities for natural gear. Given the sustained nature of the climbing and paucity of clipping stances on the top half, some of the bolts will have to be somewhat widely spaced—more than a body length apart—as a matter of course, though the route will still be absolutely safe.
The south face of Seal Rock is at present home to three other climbs: Jade Gate (5.11b, traditional), Skin Flute (5.12-, toprope/traditional), and Primate (5.13 toprope/traditional). Jade Gate and Skin Flute are 15 feet apart on the lower wall; Primate sits 100 feet uphill (west) from those; and the start of Choose Life is 30 feet uphill from the start of Primate. There is also an anchor at the lip of the wall between Primate and Choose Life that was installed in the late 1980s before the bolting ban, in anticipation of establishing a sport climb on the face below.
The approach is via the designated but unsigned Harmon Cave Trail, an OSMP Trail that leaves the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon and heads west to the eponymous cave. From the cave, a designated climber-access path heads south toward Seal Rock, and has traditionally been used to access the east- and north-face climbs. Where this trail hits the northeast toe of the rock, a 100-yard spur trail switches back south along the base of the Seal Pup to a saddle at the bottom of Seal Rock’s south face. From here a gently inclined gully leads up along the south face below the climbs. The staging area at the base of the climb is comprised of compact brown soil mixed with talus-sized rocks. It is flat or gradually inclined, with one large (car-sized) boulder embedded in the gully down and slightly to climber’s right of the start of the route.
The descent will be via a lower-off from the top of the climb, which deposits you back at the staging area.
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
PUBLIC COMMENTS: Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.
January 2013 Route Applications
September 10, 2012
Tufa Route 5.14, South Face of Seal Rock
The proposed climb, Tufa Route, is on the central south face of Seal Rock, which to date has three traditional/toprope climbs and one sport route, Choose Life (August 2012), which shares the same start—first three bolts—as Tufa Route. Where Choose Life heads left along the large left-leaning black streak past its third bolt, Tufa Route heads straight up an extruded tufa feature/brown water streak that splits into twin tufa features to the top of the wall. Choose Life and Tufa Route would be twenty-five feet apart at their top anchors and do not share any holds once they diverge, to move farther and farther apart. There would be ten new lead bolts to a double-bolt anchor at the top of the wall, making for 13 lead bolts total (counting the first three on Choose Life).
Tufa Route features a very difficult, thin, crimpy boulder problem past the proposed fourth bolt to sustained climbing on laybacks and sloping pods, followed by a good rest in a heart-shaped hueco at mid-height. From the rest it moves right along the right of the twin tufas on good holds that quickly diminish to sloping sidepulls interspersed with the occasional crimp. The climbing is sustained, technical, and bouldery all the way to the final two bolts, where the difficulty backs off to 5.12/12+. There are multiple hard cruxes throughout the climb, which is continuously overhanging with only the one rest. The rock is good throughout, though due to the difficult of staying into the overhanging (110-degree) wall on toprope to clean, a few small friable flakes will need to be removed when equipping the climb.
All reconnaissance work that can be done has, including inspection on rappel and on toprope. The top of the route had anchors installed in the late 1980s, before the bolting ban, by Colin Lantz. Lantz never returned to attempt or equip the climb, so it saw no activity until 2012 though the anchor bolts have remained. There is zero potential for natural gear, and the route would need to be bolted to be viable as a lead climb. Also, the anchors need to be moved up and left about eight feet, both for purity of line and for better rope management when lowering. Lantz’ existing anchors would then be removed and the holes patched.
Due to the severely overhanging nature of the rock, a consistent 110-degree wall, and the severity of the sequences (small size of the holds) it was difficult to stay in in multiple sections and work every move. There were also only five spots for marginal directional gear in 85 feet, which made it hard to stay in to the rock, though the applicants did their best. About half the climb has been done free, where you could stay in near the directional gear, and the applicants are confident upon inspecting and grabbing all the available holds that the route provides enough features to be freed in its entirety.
The south face of Seal Rock is at present home to four other climbs: Jade Gate (5.11b, traditional), Skin Flute (5.12-, toprope/traditional), Primate (5.13 toprope/traditional), and Choose Life (5.14- sport). Jade Gate and Skin Flute are 15 feet apart on the lower wall; Primate sits 100 feet uphill (west) from those; and the start of Choose Life/Tufa Route is 30 feet uphill from the start of Primate.
The approach is via the designated but unsigned Harmon Cave Trail, an OSMP Trail that leaves the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon and heads west to the eponymous cave. From the cave, a designated climber-access path heads south toward Seal Rock, and has traditionally been used to access the east- and north-face climbs. Where this trail hits the northeast toe of the rock, a 100-yard spur trail switches back south along the base of the Seal Pup to a saddle at the bottom of Seal Rock’s south face. From here a gently inclined gully leads up along the south face below the climbs. The descent will be via a lower-off from the top of the climb, which deposits you back on the big rock and gully below the climb. The staging area at the base of the climb is comprised of compact brown, gravely soil with minimal/no vegetation. The area is flat and well contained with little to no potential for erosion. There is one large (car-sized) boulder embedded in the gully down and slightly to climber’s right of the start of the route. As mentioned, the staging area is the same as for the existing climb Choose Life, and no additional staging impact will be created by the addition of the Tufa Route.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
PUBLIC COMMENTS: Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.
************************************************************
Honey Badger 5.12+/13-, west face of Overhang Rock
The proposed climb, Honey Badger, takes a more or less direct line up the vertical to overhanging west face of Overhang Rock ~80 feet right of the existing climb Snake Watching, punching through a series of tiered roofs to a wild and steep finish at the top of the wall. Like Snake Watching, Honey Badger is approximately 40 meters long and will require a midway anchor for lowering. The applicants propose to use 19 bolts total: 15 lead-protection bolts, as well as four additional bolts for the two anchors—a midway and a top anchor. The climb accesses the face at an obvious weakness in the lower purple band using good holds (5.10) at the top of the rock ramp leading to the broad ledge bisecting the west face of Overhang Rock. From there, the climb follows a steep arete, featuring 11+ moves on good edges, to a sloping ledge offering an almost no-hands rest, where the applicants will place a midway anchor. This first pitch will be five bolts long. From the ledge, the climb goes straight up the steep face, with engaging and technical climbing through a series of roofs to a good jug about two-thirds of the way up. Leaving the jug, one encounters the first of two distinct crux sections, with powerful moves on impeccable pockets and edges over a roof and up a steep, technical headwall to another jug. Big moves on amazing jugs lead you over the next few roof tiers to another, final 12/12+ boulder problem on crimps and sidepulls. This final pitch will be ten bolts long.
The applicants have put in several days of reconnaissance work. The initial reconnaissance consisted of constructing a gear anchor at the top of the wall and inspecting the route on rappel to determine the exact line. The applicants returned later and set up a toprope on the proposed climb, Honey Badger,using the same gear anchor. Both of the applicants have freed all of the individual sections on the climb but have not freed the line in its entirety; however, the applicants are confident that the climb goes free at the approximate grade of 5.12+/13-.
The applicants propose using fifteen protection bolts, plus two additional two bolt anchors with rings-and-chain for the midway anchor and top anchor. There is a natural gear anchor available at the bottom of the climb for the belayer, and one opportunity for natural gear in the first fifteen feet of the climb, after which no natural protection is available. The applicants feel that this is the minimum number of bolts to safely protect the climb given the length. Overall, the route is on very solid rock featuring a variety of holds and movement with only a few loose flakes that will require minor cleaning to make the route safe as a lead climb. The applicants have freed all the moves on Honey Badger, avoiding the loose rock, and are confident that any minor cleaning will not affect the route’s grade or aesthetics.
There are currently nine established routes on the west face of Overhang Rock. Snake Watching (sport, 5.13a; route 613 in the photo below) is the leftmost route on the wall and is separate from the rest of the routes. It is also the tallest route on the wall, ascending 40 meters up the face through the tiered roof system at the top of the wall. The other routes begin approximately 100 feet to the right and include, from left to right, the three 5.12 sport routes Tits out for the Lads [route 614], The Big Picture [route 615], and Missing Link [route 616], all of whichbegin atop a large ledge, as well as a 5.11d sport route, Short Attention Span [route 617], which ascends the face just right of the ledge. Farther right there are four traditional climbs: the 2-pitch Junior Achievement (5.8-; route 618), A Chorus Line (5.9 R; route 619), Shibboleth (5.8; route 620), and West Side (Story)(5.6; route 621).
The proposed climb would share the same approach as the existing climbs on the west face of Overhang Rock. Currently, the fastest and most sustainable approach is to take the Bear Canyon trail west from the Mesa Trail until about 15 feet east of the Shelf Block boulder, then take a climber’s trail southeast up the hill past two distinct boulders to the power-line tower in the talus field. From the tower, head southeast along the lower edge of the upper talus field directly below Overhang Rock to the base of Snake Watching. From the base of Snake Watching, an easy 50-foot scramble up a rock ramp to the south leads to the base of the proposed climb, which is a relatively flat monolithic rock surface.
Like the other sport routes on the wall, the descent from the top of the pitch will require rappelling or lowering from a two-bolt anchor station. Due to the length of the proposed climb (~40 meters), it will be necessary to descend by either lowering or rappelling from the anchor at the top of the route to a midway anchor at the ledge at about 50 feet, even with a 70-meter rope. From the midway anchor it is a 50-foot lower or rappel to the ground. The descent from the crag back to the Bear Canyon Trail is via the approach trail.
The staging area is a rock ramp at the base of the climb. There is a flat, gravelly area north of the start of the climb where the climber and belayer can leave packs, etc. A small platform with a bomber gear anchor is available for the belayer directly beneath the climb, which would allow him to comfortably see the climber above.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
PUBLIC COMMENTS: Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.
************************************************************
Americana Nouveau 5.14/14+, South Face of Seal Rock
The proposed route, Americana Nouveau (5.14/14+), is on the central-south face of the Seal Rock formation, about 30-40 feet west of the wall’s single existing sport climb, Choose Life (5.13+; August 2012) and up the gully from the wall’s three traditional/toprope routes: Primate (5.13), Skin Flute (5.12-), and Jade Gate (5.11). The base of this proposed climb is reached utilizing the same approach trail as for Choose Life and the other climbs on this side of Seal Rock.
The south face of Seal Rock currently hosts four other climbs: Jade Gate (5.11b, traditional), Skin Flute (5.12-, toprope/traditional), Primate (5.13 toprope/traditional), and Choose Life (5.13+ sport). Jade Gate and Skin Flute are 15 feet apart on the lower south face; Primate sits 100 feet uphill (west) from those, while the start of Choose Life (and another route proposed for this same FHRC cycle, Tufa Route—above) is 30 feet uphill from the start of Primate. The proposed route, Americana Nouveau, would begin 30-40 feet uphill (west) from Choose Life, making it the farthest climb west on this central sector.
This route has been thoroughly inspected over the course of multiple days via toprope. Some sections of rock will need minor cleaning, including the strategic removal of select loose flakes in the lower area and a little near the top, but the stone is generally very solid and good quality throughout. The climb begins by meandering through a series of compact, overlapping sandstone layers before moving, at around the 30-foot mark, into typical Flatirons conglomerate for the remainder of the climb. The climbing to this lithologic change is estimated to be in the 5.13- difficulty range. From here, the climb enters into the severely difficult crux section, moving through interesting, sculpted holds up a black streak of water-hardened rock. After pulling over a bulge-like feature at 80 feet, the difficulty eases off slightly for the remaining 30 feet before the proposed anchor at the ~110 foot mark.
Due to the severely overhanging nature of this section of cliff, the paucity of directional gear, and the sheer difficulty of this route, only certain sections have been freed on toprope. However, after careful inspection over the days spent attempting the line, usable and solid features between the toproped sections and throughout the climb give the equipper good reason to believe that the climb is free-able in its entirety, its difficulty predicted to be in the 5.14/5.14+ range. The applicant has climbed and established multiple climbs of this grade throughout the United States, and is confident that American Nouveau is viable as a free climb. There is no possibility of reliable natural gear, and thus the applicant wishes to protect the climb with 15 five-piece Power stainless-steel expansion bolts of half-inch diameter and at least 2.75” in length. Finally, this sport climb will be equipped with stainless-steel ring-and-chain lowering anchors at 110 feet (34 meters), which will lower the climber to a location just adjacent to the staging ground, about 25 feet away on top of a boulder. It will be mandatory to use a 70-meter rope.
The approach is via the designated but unsigned Harmon Cave Trail, an OSMP Trail that leaves the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon and heads west to the eponymous cave. From the cave, a designated climber-access path heads south toward Seal Rock, and has traditionally been used to access the east- and north-face climbs.
Where this trail hits the northeast toe of the rock, a 100-yard spur trail switches back south along the base of the Seal Pup formation to a saddle at the bottom of Seal Rock’s south face. From here, a gently inclined gully leads up along the south face below the climbs.
The staging area is flat, meaning that little to no erosion will occur. The area is silty, rocky soil beneath the overhang, with a small patch of Oregon grape to the side of the boulder/s you’ll belay from. A climber’s trail already exists connecting the staging area for American Nouveau to that of Choose Life, and from there down the gully to the main approach trail.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
PUBLIC COMMENTS: Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.
August 2012 Route Applications
August 6, 2012
Hueco Wall (5.12/12+), Maiden South Face:
The Hueco Wall climbs the stunning, highly-hueco’d steep face up the center of the south face of the Maiden. It could be climbed in three pitches (45 ft, 80 ft, and 80 ft) or two longer pitches. It starts directly below the end of the first pitch of the South Face (SF) route and climbs up to the same anchor, overlapping with the SF 1st pitch in the last 15 feet. No bolts would be used anywhere near this overlap as adequate existing natural protection (and an existing fixed piton) are present. The existing 1st pitch SF anchor consists of slings around a rock horn and carabiners, though other solid, natural protection is also available in this same area. The fixed slings and biners are commonly used for rappelling the South Face Route.
The South Face route starts downhill and to the right (east) approximately 60 feet and traverses left to finish at this same belay, while the start of the Kor Dalke route is uphill and to the west approximately 50 feet. The somewhat obscure (andunrepeated) Eye of the Storm also begins from the same first pitch SF belay, though traverses hard left to a large “mitten” flake feature. It apparently goes up the right side of the mitten flake (we recently observed fixed slings in that crack) and continues traversing up and left. At one point, the Hueco Wall line comes within about 10 feet of this flake, though only briefly. The wall has 5 existing traditional routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.12a. From left to right (west to east), the routes are Gates of Galas (5.10d R), the Kor-Dalke (12a R), Eye of the Storm (5.9 X), the South Face (5.8 PG-13), and South Crack (5.11b). All of these existing routes and the proposed route are shown in the photo here.
The approach is the standard Maiden established trail to the south face climbs. The trail involves leaving the Mesa Trail near an old quarry north of Shadow Canyon, following the quarry road to the north for a few hundred yards, then following a small climber trail (see photo below) up to the eastern toe of the Maiden. This narrow trail is mostly dirt and rocks and is in good shape and appears stable. The base of the south face of the Maiden is approximately 1 mile from the fork off the Mesa Trail.
The proposed route would end (atop its third pitch) at a double-bolt anchor down off the summit ridge, out of view of the East Ridge; one could either lower from here back to the pitch-two anchor or continue up and finish with an easy 5.6 section to the summit. When descending from atop the second pitch, an approximate 80-foot rappel would be required to get down to the first-pitch South Face rappel anchor. Another 50-foot rappel would be required to get back to the ground and base of the route. It might be possible to lower from the second-pitch anchor with a 70-m rope though this has not been tested. The route should require about 25-26 bolts total: 4 lead bolts on the first section/pitch; 8 lead bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor on the second pitch; and 9/10 lead bolts on the third pitch to a 2-bolt anchor.
The base of the climb is rocky but includes some bushes and trees, and there is little or no existing erosion. We recommend using the same rocky staging area as for the SF route, as the very base of the climb is a narrow rocky gully bordered by trees. The photo below shows the proposed staging area and the start of the climb can be seen in that shady gully approximately 30 feet behind the seated climber.
Reconnaissance work has been completed over four different days and the rock is extremely clean in general, though some potentially friable rock exists in the first 10 feet of the second pitch above the belay anchor atop pitch one of the South Face. The route has been toproped, and all but the last 15 feet or so of the second pitch was free climbed, due to a lack of directional anchors to hold us into the wall when we fell. The first pitch went free at about 5.9 and the second pitch is 5.11 to our highpoint. Rigging of the toprope was tricky and required directional gear placements that were difficult to set due to the overhanging nature of the rock in that area. Obvious holds were present in the last 15 feet of the second pitch, though it was difficult to toprope this part due to the swing potential based on available directionals. While not able to free-climb the last few feet due to challenging toprope conditions, we believe that the finish of the second pitch would be in the 5.11+/5.12- range. Only small portions of the third pitch were climbed free due to large swings when falling on toprope and lack of available directionals. We estimate the third pitch to be rated somewhere in the 5.12 range, and obvious holds were present throughout the line shown in the photos. Due also to the overhanging nature of the rock above our proposed second-pitch anchor, it will be necessary to drill one or two holes and place one or two bolts on the third pitch to get in and safely install this anchor the first time down, as well as to toprope the third pitch. We will endeavor to place the bolts in obvious clipping stances; barring that, we’ll use removable Triplex bolts. Any temporary bolts would then be removed, and the holes patched and camouflaged.
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Pending
PUBLIC COMMENTS: Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.