Whipped Kreem

1.  A photocopy or diagram of the rock formation with the proposed route drawn in;

Whipped Kreem, West Face of The Slab

The proposed route is on the West Face of The Slab and takes an independent line between the routes Sooper Kreem 13a, on the left and Rad Kreem 5.13, on the right. It will take a line varying from between 10 and 30 feet from either route, never being possible to climb or clip bolts on the other two routes. I believe it will need 10 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts.

The proposed route will need to use the same approach slab as Sooper Kreem and then at the ledge system where the hard climbing starts will commence with a moderate section of vertical rock to an initial overhang of possibly 5.12 moves. After this initial section there are some large holds that lead to the center section of the proposed route. This portion of the route is mostly vertical with obvious holds and a large flake. This vertical section leads to the top overhanging bulge which I believe will comprise the crux of the route. The top bulge has been investigated and cleaned on rappel. I think it will have a short section of 5.12 climbing through the bulge leading to a good, large hold and then a short section of 5.11 moves to an obvious spot for the anchor. The center section, as well as the start have not been climbed due to the overhanging nature of the route which has no possibility of natural gear that would allow a top rope ascent. There are no good options for natural gear and the pitch will be approximately 110 feet long.

2.  A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required);

The West Face of The Slab has 17 established routes with a variety of grades from 5.10b to 5.13c. The proposed route Whipped Kreem is between the routes Sooper Kreem 13a and Rad Kreem 13 and is approximately 10-30 feet from either route. The routes on The Slab as they stand now (starting from the highest route, uphill on the right side of the wall and going down left) are; Sick For Sleeping 11c, Hippopotamus 11a, Sweet Niblets 12d, Undertow 12b, Rad Kreem 13, proposed route Whipped Kreem, Sooper Kreem 13a, Pen 15 13c, Prime The Pump, 12c, Trad Kreem 10b, Whipping Post 11d, Kookies and Creem 13a, Soo Kreem 13b, Boys With Power Toys 12b, Family Man 12a, Shalosh 12a, Film Noir 12c, Just Another Boys Climb 12a

3.  A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the approach.);

 Whipped Kreem Trail

The approach is the standard and well used trail to the West Face of The Slab on dirt and bare rock talus.

4. If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.);

This will be a sport route with lowering anchors at the top of the proposed route.

5.  A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.);

The staging area for the proposed route is directly beside the well used staging area for Sooper Kreem and is bare rock and dirt. The route will climb the same approach slab as Sooper Kreem. All climbers solo this 5.0 slab.

Whipped Kreem Staging 

6. Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

The route has been inspected on rappel and the applicants are certain it will go free. It is too steep to be completely free climbed without bolts.

7.  Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has been partially free climbed on top rope but due to the extremely overhanging nature of the rock a red point ascent was not possible. All moves but the bottom 30 feet have been free climbed. There is minimal loose rock and no vegetation on the proposed route.

3 replies
  1. Rui Ferreira
    Rui Ferreira says:

    Looks like another stellar addition to the wall, I vote yes based on the quality of the adjacent routes.


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