Entries by tlanzano

Sweet Niblitz

Sweet Niblitz (5.12d); FA: Matt Samet, Rui Ferreira, Paul Glover, 2008: This is the overhanging wall just right of Undertow, on the west face of The Slab, beginning about 10 feet right. Pre-clip the first bolt and engage a tough, shouldery boulder problem followed by 8 more bolts of pumpy 5.12a climbing. The route flows […]

s00pr kr33m

s00pr kr33m (5.13a); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano: This is a 10-bolt, single-pitch climb about 50 feet left of Undertow, up a very overhanging panel on the broad west face of the Slab. A 70-meter rope is MANDATORY and you might possibly want some small TCUs (to finger size) and a wired nut or two […]

Pen 15

Pen 15 (5.12a/13b); FA: Matt Samet, Chris Weidner: This is a two-pitch climb up the left-central part of the Slab’s very overhanging west face, about 50 feet right of the corner whereWhipping Post starts. The entire climb is only 30 meters long, but it’s still best to break it into two pitches, for rope management […]

Prime the Pump

Prime the Pump (5.12c); FA: Matt Samet ,Greg Belinski, 2012: This is the leftmost route on the “Undertow” headwall, the big overhang on the west face of the Slab. Can be done in two pitches, or one pitch with a 60m rope—long slings and some unclipping as you go are helpful. The first pitch is 5.11+ […]

k00kEEz n’ krEEm

k00kEEz n’ krEEm (5.12+/13-); FA: Ted Lanzano, Matt Samet, 2009: Find this climb as the north face blends into the west, wrapping uphill and right; it’s about 50 feet left of the 5.11dWhipping Post. Climb 12 bolts up the clean, monolithic face to a looming summit roof (60-meter rope mandatory!). The bouldery, crimpy, temperature-dependent crux […]

s00krEEM

s00krEEm (5.13b); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Paul Glover, 2008; top anchors and two directionals installed by Chris Beh and Kurt Smith, 1988: s00krEEm is basically the first climb you come to when approaching The Slab on the climbers’ trail. It climbs past nine bolts on a rainbow-streaked, bulging wall on the right side of […]

Family Man

Family Man (5.12a+); FA: Chris Beh, Matt Samet, Phil Gruber, 2008: This is the long, pumpy route through multiple tiers of roofs left of the 1980s 5.12 Boys with Power Toys. It can be identified by red-brown hangers, and starts behind a small pine tree. Climb a slab up to and through the first roof […]

Shalosh

Shalosh (5.12a); FA: Chris Beh, Erik Fedor, Anders Fridberg, 2009: This is the nine-bolt route up the northeast-facing buttress/pillar immediately left of Family Man, on the north face of The Slab. Climb up a steepening slab to a roof encounter (5.11) to a small stance at a finger seam (small TCUs here). Move up to […]

Film Noir

Film Noir (5.12c/d); FA: Chris Beh, 2009-2011: This is 30-meter (60-meter rope MANDATORY), 13-bolt face climb up a beautiful black streak on the north face of the Slab, 25 feet right of Just Another Boy’s Climb. Six bolts of slab climbing (5.10+) take you to a small stance below the obvious overhanging headwall and the streak, […]

North Face Rappel Route (Sea of Joy)

North Face Rappel Route (Sea of Joy): The often-used north-face rappel route, down the three-pitch climb Sea of Joy, has been updated (11/12) with stainless-steel hardware. Work completed by Terry Murphy. Info below: P1 anchor – bolts and hangers (2 each) P2 anchor – bolts (2); one hanger with double rappel rings, one hanger with quick-links and […]