Route Name: Doors of Stone

Application Status:

Application Cycle: current

Rock Formation: Fiddlehead

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 16

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 4

Route Difficulty:5.13

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route ascends the west side of the Fiddlehead, between the existing routes “Stemadilemma” and “Clarence”. The route starts about 30 ft downhill of Stemadilemma, ascending an obvious thin dihedral. The route is 2 pitches, and the first pitch anchor will also serve as an anchor for “Stemadilemma”, which currently has old fixed nuts with tat as the anchor. The first pitch is very technical, ascending the slab to the left of the dihedral, and then traversing left on easier terrain to the sloping ledge above Stemadilemma. The second pitch goes up incipient cracks towards the massive roof above, and climbs through the roof in a slot with improbably huge jugs. There is an exit boulder problem at the end of the roof, and then the climber ascends easier terrain in the dihedral above to the top of the wall.

Name Meaning:

The route name, Doors of Stone, is a reference to the forthcoming third book in the classic “Kingkiller Chronicles” series by Patrick Rofthuss.

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach follows the well-established climber’s trail to the Fiddlehead. Approach via the Fern Canyon Trail, breaking off to the north on the climber’s trail near the Superfresh boulder. Follow the standard climber’s trail to approach to the base.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Climbers can descend by lowering off the route with an 80m rope, or by lowering to the midway anchor with a 60m rope. Climbers will then reverse the approach in.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the climb is solid rock and dirt.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Due to the severe overhanging nature of the route, it has not been top roped in its entirety.

Any additional notes:

The applicants have contacted one of the First Ascensionists of “Stemadilemma” to ensure that they are ok with the proposed anchor on top of their existing trad route.