Route Name: Paradise Lost, 5.9

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2005

Rock Formation: Red Devil

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 10

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.9

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

The proposed route lies at the terminus of the first switchback of the Red Devil Climber's Trail, thirty meters downhill of "Hell Freezes Over". This route ascends 27 meters through two bulges, a steep crack in a corner and ends at a bolted belay on a lower angle section ten meters below the Southeast Ridge of the Red Devil.

 

Name Meaning:

Not provided

 

Existing Route Information

Adjacent to "Hell Freezes Over" to the West. The proposed route will open up a well-protected moderate lead in the 5.9 range, of similar quality and difficulty to its neighbor to the West, Hell Freezes Over.

Existing Route Diagrams

 

 

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Located at the terminus of the first switchback of the Red Devil Climber's Trail, thirty meters downhill of "Hell Freezes Over".

 

 

 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

 

Not provided

 

 

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

On toprope inspection there was no loose rock.

Any additional notes:

Bolt hangers will closely match the intermittent red and green color of the rock. There is no obvious natural protection available on the route. The proposed route meets all of the requirements of the FCC's guidelines: it is located in the study area, it is adjacent to an existing improved trail, and it covers new and otherwise unclimbed rock. --- Additional (unmatched) --- Application date: 8/13/05 FHRC Overview of the application: Approved