Route Name: The Hangover

Application Status:

Application Cycle: current

Rock Formation: Overhang Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 12

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

A vertical start yields to delicate slab climbing for about 20 feet before the rock arches back to vertical and then overhanging for the remainder of the climb. It’s about 15 feet to the right of the original sport route on this wall, The Overhang (which tackles the central prow), and is characterized by blocky, physical climbing with a dynamic finale.

 

Name Meaning:

The route name is simply a play on the wording of The Overhang and Overhang Rock.

 

Existing Route Information

There are currently 5 existing routes on the east face proper: 1) East Face (5.6, 2 pitches, trad) This is the “standard” summit route on this side of Overhang Rock. It’s located at the far left (south) side of the face. There is a direct first pitch variation that goes at 5.7 trad. 2) Overhang Left 5.13 This fantastic new sport route has not yet been redpointed, but as soon as temperatures cool down it will be. This route is roughly 100 yards downhill from the East Face and about 10 feet left of The Overhang. 3) The Overhang 5.14 The first sport route on the east face, this fine line is fully bolted and I am currently working on free climbing this spectacular route. 4) Flakes of Respite (5.8 R, 4 pitches, trad) This recent, heady route begins about 100 yards downhill from East Face. 5) Aid East Face (5.8 C2 R, 2 pitches, trad) Another 100 feet downhill from Flakes of Respite is this aid route – the first climb encountered when approaching from beneath the north side of the rock.

Existing Route Diagrams

 

 

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach begins at the Bear Canyon trailhead, then cuts left onto the main canyon trail beneath NCAR and straight toward the Flatirons. After some meandering switchbacks turn right onto the Bear Canyon trail where the main fork leads toward the Mesa Trail. Once the right fork veers left there’s a nice view of the east face of Overhang Rock. After passing underneath Overhang Rock to the north, a climber’s trail (packed dirt, rocks) cuts left up into the woods and circles back toward Overhang Rock’s west face on a faint trail and over talus. Pass underneath the north face of the wall (and Rogue’s Arete) to access the east face via boulder-hopping. Walk uphill beneath the face for about 100 yards (packed dirt, rocks, dried grass and low brush) to the base of the proposed route. *Alternatively, once beneath the west face one can walk uphill beneath it to the notch at the south end of Overhang Rock, pop over to the east side, and walk downhill (packed dirt, rocks, pine needles) to the base of the proposed route.

 

 

 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent is the same as the approach.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

 

The base of the climb consists of large, flat boulders and compact dirt and soil obscured by some dry, bushy material (flattened from winter snow).

 

 

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The upper two-thirds of the route is too steep to toprope and there are no opportunities for gear to hold me into the wall. The first third of the route is too far to the side of The Overhang to use any of its hardware for toproping. A small amount of loose rock exists on the first half, consisting of flakes that are easily removed. The base rock on this wall is as solid as any I’ve seen in the Flatirons. Yes, this route is extremely overhanging in the upper two-thirds.

Any additional notes:

Not provided

 

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