Route Name: Thulsa Doom

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2016

Rock Formation: Overhang Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 16

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.12+

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

Thulsa Doom climbs the obvious, striking arête which forms the far left (north) side of the west face of Overhang Rock and the right (west) side of the north face. The proposed climb would be 35 meters in length, finishing roughly 15 feet below the top of the wall under a large overhang. Thulsa Doom accesses the arête and face by climbing through the lower tiered roofs via powerful moves on good holds. From there, the climb ascends the lichened face just right of the blunt arête on excellent rock using solid edges (5.11) until the terrain eases (there is an optional gear placement here so the applicants are not proposing to add a bolt) and a small but hands-free ledge just below the start of the "arête proper" is reached. From the ledge, the climb goes up the steep face just right of the arête with more engaging and technical 5.11 climbing until the climber is forced to move left over the arête via tenuous and powerful 5.12 climbing to a good rest just below the right-leaning, overhanging upper arête. From the rest, the climb goes directly up the right-leaning arête, providing about 25 feet of some of the wildest, most exposed and most gymnastic climbing to be found anywhere in the Flatirons. The crux ends at a large hold where the arête becomes vertical again, then continues directly up the arête for another 30 feet of incredible, exposed 5.11- jug hauling with an impressive view of the city to the northeast. The climb ends at a good rest at the end of the "arête proper" under a large, left-angling roof feature at the top of the wall.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The proposed climb would share the same approach as the existing climbs on the west face of Overhang Rock. Currently, the fastest and least intrusive approach is to walk along the Bear Canyon trail until about 15 feet east of the Shelf Block boulder, then take a climber's trail southeast up the hill past two distinct boulders to the power line tower in the talus field. From the tower, cairns lead to the southeast along the lower edge of the upper talus field directly below Overhang Rock to the base of Snake Watching. The proposed climb, Thulsa Doom, begins roughly 10 feet to the left of Snake Watching from a flat, rocky area.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Climbers would descend from the route by either lowering or rappelling from the anchor at the top of the route. Due to the length of the proposed route, a 70 meter rope will be required. The same approach trail would then be followed back to the Bear Canyon Trail.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is a rocky, compacted area at the base of the climb, just left of the existing staging area for Snake Watching. Climbers would likely leave packs, etc. in the existing staging area due to its proximity; however, the belay area directly beneath the proposed climb is similarly flat and rocky with no vegetation so there would be no impacts if a team decided to leave their packs, etc. there instead.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The route is comprised of incredibly solid rock that the applicants are confident will remain solid and not require any additional cleaning.

Any additional notes:

Not provided