Route Name: The Shaft, 5.12b

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2009

Rock Formation: Dinosaur Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 10

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.12

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route (90 feet) is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock and starts 40 feet down and to climber's left of the existing route Milk Bone (the first climb approved on the formation). It shares its start with the existing toprope Patience Face but where the latter climb moves right, The Shaft goes straight up on an extruded tufa-like feature. The route starts with a 5.11/11+ sequence to cross a hanging flake into the groove, then climbs more 5.11/11+ climbing up the groove, over a small roof, and up a clean face to a no-hands rest (where Patience Face moves right). The upper half of the climb engages the tufa via gymnastic movement (5.12) on large, sloping holds on overhanging rock, finishing via easier face climbing (5.10/11) toward the top of the wall. The rock quality is excellent, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean.

 

Name Meaning:

Not provided

 

Existing Route Information

The route starts 40 feet down and to climber's left of the existing route Milk Bone (the first climb approved on the formation). It shares its start with the existing toprope Patience Face but where the latter climb moves right, The Shaft goes straight up. The route offers shady 5.12 climbing on perfect stone without compromising any existing routes or adding impact to the crag base – it's directly off the Mallory Cave Trail on a rock approved for new routes, and will share the staging area with Milk Bone, already approved.

Existing Route Diagrams

 

 

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Directly off the Mallory Cave Trail

 

 

 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

 

Will share the staging area with Milk Bone, already approved

 

 

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has been red-pointed on top-rope. The route offers only one marginal C3 placement, used as a TR directional, in friable rock down low, with no other traditional/natural gear placements.

Any additional notes:

Not provided