Route Name: Rad Kreme Proposal on the Slab

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2015

Rock Formation: The Slab

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 12

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:13

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route is on the West Face of The Slab and takes an independent line between the routes Sooper Kreem 13a, on the left and Undertow 12b, on the right. It will take a line varying from between 10 and 30 feet from either route, never being possible to climb or clip bolts on the other two routes. The proposed route will need to use the same approach slab as Sooper Kreem and then at the ledge system where the hard climbing starts will commence with a hard section of slightly overhanging face moves that may be the technical crux of the route but do to the overhanging nature of the line this section has not been free climbed. The route reaches an obvious feature with an undercling where a few easier moves lead to a very overhanging section with a second crux that is about a V6 boulder problem. Just above this section the rock backs off to vertical with many good holds and the route will continue with 5.11 moves for about 20 feet to an obvious finishing point where an anchor will be placed. There are no good options for natural gear and the pitch will be approximately 110 feet long.

 

Name Meaning:

Not provided

 

Existing Route Information

The West Face of The Slab has 16 established routes with a variety of grades from 5.10b to 5.13c. The proposed route Rad Kreem is between the routes Sooper Kreem 13a and Undertow 12b and is approximately 10-30 feet from either route. The routes on The Slab as they stand now (starting from the highest route, uphill on the right side of the wall and going down left) are; Sick For Sleeping 11c, Hippopotamus 11a, Sweet Niblets 12d, Undertow 12b, proposed route Rad Kreem 13, Sooper Kreem 13a, Pen 15 13c, Prime The Pump, 12c, Trad Kreem 10b, Whipping Post 11d, Kookies and Creem 13a, Soo Kreem 13b, Boys With Power Toys 12b, Family Man 12a, Shalosh 12a, Film Noir 12c, Just Another Boys Climb 12a

Existing Route Diagrams

 

 

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach is the standard and well used trail to the West Face of The Slab on dirt and talus rock.

 

 

 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

This is a sport route with lowering anchors at the top of the proposed route.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

 

The staging area for the proposed route is directly beside the well used staging area for Sooper Kreem and is bare rock and dirt. The route will climb the same approach slab as Sooper Kreem. All climbers solo this 5.0 slab.

 

 

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has been partially free climbed on top rope but due to the extremely overhanging nature of the rock a red point ascent was not possible. All moves but the bottom 30 feet have been free climbed. There is minimal loose rock and no vegetation on the proposed route.

Any additional notes:

Not provided

 

6 replies
  1. kevin murphy
    kevin murphy says:

    Great area. Would this be the hardest on the Slab, so far. Position looks spectacular.

  2. Lynn Hill
    Lynn Hill says:

    The Rad Kreme route looks fantastic! I love climbing in the Flatirons and the Slab is one of the best crags in the area. I would love to see a new line go up on this gorgeous rock!

Comments are closed.