Route Name: Direct West Face aka Western Skyline, 5.11b
Application Status:
Application Cycle: 2008
Rock Formation: Third Flatiron
Number of lead bolts to be placed: 7
Number of anchor bolts to be placed:
Route Difficulty:5.11b
Route Diagrams:
Not provided
Proposed Route:
The proposed route lies on the narrow west face of the Third Flatiron between the West Face route and Saturday's Folly. It follows the first 20 feet of Saturday's Folly, then moves left onto a beautiful steep prow that splits the west fact. The route then joins the existing West Face route after about 60 feet of climbing and four bolts (5.11b). It follows the existing West Face route for about 25 feet through an overhang and up an elegant finger crack to a ledge, all protected with good gear (5.10). The new route continues on easier ground for 20 feet, moves to the left (north) side of the steep prow, and turns a final overhang on spectacular moves protected by three more bolts (5.11b). The route finishes on a large ledge directly below the summit of the Flatiron where good anchors can be placed with gear. Requiring only seven bolts, the route provides a full pitch of superb climbing with unrivaled position. At its grade, the route is accessible to many climbers. The route begins at the end of the standard north-side approach trail and it shares a staging area with Saturday's Folly and Friday's Folly. So we expect no new areas of impact from this route.
Name Meaning:
Not provided
Existing Route Information
The route lies between the West Face route and Saturday's Folly. It follows the first 20 feet of Saturday's Folly, then joins the existing West Face route after about 60 feet. It shares a staging area with Saturday's Folly and Friday's Folly.Existing Route Diagrams
A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.
The route begins at the end of the standard north-side approach trail.
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):
Not provided
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):
Shares a staging area with Saturday's Folly and Friday's Folly.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
Base Area Photos
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
Not provided
Any additional notes:
--- Public Comments --- Please accept this application. Sounds good. Looks good -- a vote for Yes. I vote yes Yes, would be amazing position. yes yes I had the opportunity to toprope this line, and it is outstanding. Yes, a welcome addition. Yes. Sweet, new line! Yesssssssssss!!! Yes Cautious of new bolt but this seems reasonable since not much natural protection exists. looks great No, climbs through popular rappels. Easy to top rope. Yes, Looks like an instant classic. yes. sounds good. yes sir I vote yes for this route and the proposed bolt protection. This new proposal addresses the previous concerns of crowding in on existing lines and distracting from the natural gear protection of the adjacent routes. Looks good. This submission has some history and met with some minor resistance in its first submission. MUCH to the credit of the submitter, the initial objections of the closeness of bolts to an existing line has been addressed and I think that this is a great proposal. Looks great! I vote yes! Yes, nice one! Looks good as long as the existing rappels are not effected. Route should not climb on the rappel route Yes Do it --- Additional (unmatched) --- FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
