Route Name: Milk Bone, 5.13a

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2009

Rock Formation: Dinosaur Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 8

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.12+/13-

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The route starts out with 30 feet of 5.9 to a sloping ledge. From there, sustained 5.12/12+ (with a crux negotiating the lip of the roof), with only a couple of minor rests, follows the tufa to an upper headwall, and a final 5.11 roof.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Not provided

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The staging area is immediately off the Mallory Cave Trail, at a flat balcony in the trees

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is immediately off the Mallory Cave Trail, at a flat balcony in the trees

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has been red-pointed (C. Weidner, M. Samet, B. Scott) on toprope

Any additional notes:

The proposed route is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock and climbs an extruded, tufa-like feature in the middle of the wall. The climb starts with 30 feet of moderate climbing to a ledge below a small roof, then is consistently overhanging for 70 more feet, to the lip of the wall, where the overhanging rock meets the slab of the east face. Total length is 30 meters. Length: 100 feet. The rock quality is good low and will only get cleaner, and is excellent above the ledge all the way to the top. The route offers sustained, outstanding climbing on a tufa feature to rival European limestone and that is completely unique in the Flatirons. The wall's shady aspect also makes it a good summer venue, when other places in Boulder are often too hot. --- Additional (unmatched) --- Application date: 3/15/09. Route Information Since Installation: Four bolts to a double-bolt anchor. FHRC Overview of the application: Complete. PUBLIC COMMENTS: I am in favor of the fixed hardware proposal pertaining to the proposed new route "Milk Bone" on Dinosaur Rock. I have hiked up and looked at "Milkbone". The route is an independet line on quality rock, and looks to be a great addition to an amazing climbing area! I vote yes on this application. I support the bolting of Milk Bone on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock as specified in the application. I am very familiar with this formation after top roping a line to the left and can vouch for the high quality of climbing and rock on this section of the cliff. It is exciting to finally see established routes going up on this outstanding formation.