Route Name: sookrEEm, 5.13b

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2008

Rock Formation: The Slab

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 10

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.13b

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route is on the North Face of the Slab and starts approximately 20 feet right of Boys with Power Toys. The climb moves up a face, to bulging rock, to a hanging slab. A final roof and easier slab take you to existing anchors (installed before the bolting ban, along with two directional bolts) about 20 feet diagonally right, and up, from the Power Toys anchor bolts. The route is 85 feet in length and goes at 5.13b. It has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. The route does not offer traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. Bolt locations have been marketed with white chalk (~1-inch circles). The proposal is to use 10 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations. First ascentionist wishes to leave the existing anchors and top directional bolt where they are, but replace them with ½-inch stainless-steel hardware, as well as move the lower directional bolt about three feet left, where it will be easier to clip. These two bolts will comprise two of the 10 proposed clips. Existing bolts are marked in green on the photo, while red are the proposed new clips. The route starts out with the two bolts of 5.11 face climbing to a bulging headwall of purple stone riddled with faint corners. Five bolts of continuous climbing (5.13) take you through this terrain, which eases toward 5.12 as you near the hanging slab. A small rest below the finishing roof allows some pause and a clip, then 5.12- climbing over the roof and a small crux standing up take you to 5.9 climbing (final bolt) to finish.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Accessed via the same approach trail as Just Another Boy's Climb, Family Man, and Boys with Power Toys.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is a flat place in the trees, same as for Just Another Boy's Climb, Family Man, and Boys with Power Toys. The route doesn't add impact to the crag base.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Not provided

Any additional notes:

The rock quality is excellent, and the route doesn't compromise any existing routes. First ascentionist wishes to leave the existing anchors and top directional bolt where they are, but replace them with ½-inch stainless-steel hardware, as well as move the lower directional bolt about three feet left, where it will be easier to clip. These two bolts will comprise two of the 10 proposed clips. Existing bolts are marked in green on the photo, while red are the proposed new clips. --- Public Comments --- Bolt It!! This is a beautiful independent line and would be a great addition to The Slab. Please accept this application. looks amazing boys! I would love to see this get bolted. Vote yes for this route! Looks great. Yes. I was just up there a couple of days ago and looked at the pending line. I think the rock quality at the Slab is some of the best in the flatirons and more routes going up are welcome. Yes to the route and all bolts. yes Yes, and yes. looks sweet, hook it up - yes! Flatirons Resurgence!!! Drill Yes, what a good looking piece of rock. Nice addition to the cliff. When will the bolting begin? looks perfect. yes. yes please be careful with your comments (above). This process is being allowed because of hard work between climbers and land managers. Sloppiness is what got us here in the 1st place. thanks great rock, perfect setting, completely agree... I vote yes for this route. It is a great line with sustained climbing and clean rock. More importantly the line represents the fact that climbers are willing to wait twenty years to finish aborted projects and do respect the OSMP rules and regulations. Drill baby, Drill Yes. Please bolt this, it looks like a great line! Looks nice, bolt it