Route Name: The Second Coming

Application Status: current

Application Cycle: current

Rock Formation: Ridge One

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 13

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.14b

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route will climb for one bolt (shared) with God’s Kingdom on Earth (5.12b) before moving left along an obvious hanging flake feature. Where the flake ends, the route will go straight up a thin face via seams and crimps in a green lichen streak to overhanging and more-featured rock above. The route has been inspected thoroughly and multiple times on rappel/lowering from the neighboring climbs Later Creators and Gunbarrel Cool Guys, but is too overhanging and traverses too much to be safely toproped, as it also has large trees behind it in the gully. The overall estimated difficulty is 5.14b: a 5.13c traverse to a rest; to a 20-foot V10/V11 crux section on the face; to more-featured 5.12 climbing to exit over the lip and finish partway up the upper slab, ending below Ridge One/Stairway to Heaven proper.

Name Meaning:

The route name refers to the second coming of Christ, as per biblical lore, which has informed other route names on the wall and formation, named Stairway to Heaven.

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach involves taking the climber’s trail to Hillbilly Rock then hiking west through the notch between Ridge One and The Hobo before dropping south down the gully between Ridge One and Ridge Two. This is an established approach to existing rock climbs.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent will be via lower-off from fixed anchors, taking you back to the gully/staging area between Ridge One and Ridge Two.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area consists of hardpacked soil and talus blocks, and is shared with the existing climb God’s Kingdom on Earth.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has not been toproped because it’s too steep and traversing in nature to do so (the wall overhangs 40-50 degrees at the bottom), and there are large trees behind it and no directional gear to speak of. There is minimal loose rock, with only some light cleaning needed to stabilize the edge of the flake feature on the first 10-15 feet after the climb breaks left. Yes, the route is extremely overhanging, in character with the rest of the wall.

Any additional notes:

This route does not come anywhere near the “problematic” flake that led to Skunked being debolted.