Route Name: Purple Serpent

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2017

Rock Formation: Devils Advocate

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 12

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 4

Route Difficulty:5.13b

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route is located in the center of the Devil's Advocate's south face, which to date has no bolted climbs. The route takes a clean, striking line up one of the steepest parts of the face. The 100-foot climb begins with easier 5.10 hueco features and gradually steepens into difficult 5.13 and 5.13+ climbing to the top of the wall. The route does not offer traditional/natural gear placements. The applicants propose installing 12 bolts, plus mid-way and top anchors. The mid-way anchor would allow for a moderate warm-up at 5.10.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Hike the Mesa Trail from the S. Shanahan junction, heading south. On the flat mesa just before the Mesa Trail dips down to the Big Bluestem Trail, you cut right along the bed of an old quarry road about 1/3 of a mile to reach the Mamoonius/PB Boulders area. From there, continue due south to a window notch on the rocky ridge, then traverse across to the toe of Devil's Advocate and go up along the south face. There is very little vegetation on the approach and it's mostly along pine needles and bare ground.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent will be from the midway and/or top anchors, both of which will deposit you back at the staging area.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area consists of mostly of rocks, dirt and pine needles with little vegetation. There are several decent platforms below the wall for belaying.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The applicants have toproped the climbed and inspected the route. The rock is impeccable quality and there is very little, if any, loose rock. All moves have been freed on top-rope, but the route is very overhanging and difficult to work without any directional gear placements.

Any additional notes:

Not provided