Route Name: Horsefly Hootenany

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2018

Rock Formation: Hillbilly Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 9

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:13a

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

Horsefly Hootenany climbs a severely overhanging panel on the climber’s left (north) side of the west face of Hillbilly Rock. It climbs 5.10/5.11 rock to a rightward traverse on small edges to a definitive crux, then moves back left on another crux traverse via small edges and slopers and heel hooks that ends in a difficult mantel. From there the route climbs steep, strenuous 5.11 on big, widely spaced bucket flakes to the top. The overall grade is estimated to be 5.13a.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Not provided

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach is via NCAR. Take the Mallory Cave Trail to the Mesa Trail, head south to where the Mesa Trail traverses Skunk Canyon. Head west into Skunk Canyon on the climber’s approach trail, passing under The Guardian, then head due north up the gully between Hillbilly Rock and Ridge 1 to reach the west side of Hillbilly Rock on an existing climber’s trail. The trail is on durable, hard-packed dirt and talus.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Lower back to base

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area at the base of the climb is hardpacked dirt and rock, and is flat and comfortable for belaying

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The route is very overhanging but we were able to stay in on most sections with a directional piece. The route climbs solid rock minus a few thin flakes we removed and a few others we will need to remove when bolting, when we can stay into the wall better to clean.

Any additional notes:

Not provided