Route Name: Hell Freezes Over, 5.10a/12a

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2004

Rock Formation: Red Devil

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 16

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 4

Route Difficulty:5.11+

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route is a nice 5.11+, 2 stars out of a three star system. The first pitch is a long 5.10 pitch (approx 100') with good holds. It ends at a big ledge. The only natural gear placements were two potential cam placements behind loose flakes. Neither were good placements and a fall would most likley result in ripping the flakes and the pieces. 11 bolts plus 2 for anchors. The second pitch is recessed about 15' from the top of the first pitch, making a link-up of the two pitches very difficult due to rope-drag. The drag would be hideous and the belay on the ledge sunny and warm with great views. The second pitch is about 45' long and has high quality, significantly harder climbing (11+). There is a possible shallow horizontal cam placement in a crack between the first and second protection bolts on this pitch. The bolt locations are several feet above and below this potential placement. 5 bolts plus 2 for anchors.

 

Name Meaning:

Not provided

 

Existing Route Information

Not provided

Existing Route Diagrams

 

 

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Not provided

 

 

 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

 

Not provided

 

 

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Not provided

Any additional notes:

FHRC Overview of the application: Approved Public Comments: Approved