Route Name: Film Noir, 5.12c/d

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2009

Rock Formation: The Slab

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 14

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.12 c/d

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

This route climbs an independent and aesthetic line on generally solid rock up a prominent black streak in the middle of the Slab's northwest face. It starts on the moderate slab apron right of Just Another Boys Climb. 5.7 climbing past the first bolt (20 feet up) leads to a 5.10 bulge at bolts 2 and 3. The angle eases for a few moves, leading to another bulge and a 5.11a/b crux at bolts 5 and 6. Again the angle eases for a few moves, allowing a rest and a 7th clip before confronting the route's crux at bolts 8 and 9. From here, the climbing stays sustained -- with multiple 5.11 and 5.11+ cruxes -- and gently overhanging until the anchors. From the final jug, at the lip of the wall and with the 14th bolt at your feet, it will be possible to reach up and clip the chains before mantling onto lesser-angled terrain. The top out is similar to Boys Climb, in that the most-proper free ascent involves climbing up over the lip before weighting the anchors.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

There is an existing climber trail to the base of the route.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is the flat, piney bench used for Boy's Climb, Family Man, s00krEEm, and Boys with Power Toys – i.e., no new impact to the crag base will occur.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Film Noir was toproped off gear

Any additional notes:

The lower half of the climb, which negotiates two bulges with slabby/rampy terrain below each, needs 7 bolts to eliminate the possibility of decking on the respective slabs. The headwall also has 7 bolts -- about the same as the neighboring Boy's Climb, which has 6 bolts and 2 pins. This is an excellent, independent route on solid rock, climbing up the prominent and aesthetic black streak right of Boy's Climb. The climb takes the best line on this panel of the wall. There is no possibility of reliable natural gear throughout, making bolts the best and only lead-protection option. --- Additional (unmatched) --- Application date: 3/15/09 Length: approximately 95 feet. Name: Film Noir FHRC Overview of the application: Complete PUBLIC COMMENTS: I am in favor of the fixed hardware proposal pertaining to the proposed new route "Film Noir" on The Slab. I have hiked up and looked at "Film Noir". The route is an independet line on quality rock, and looks to be a great addition to an amazing climbing area! I vote yes on this application. I support the addition of Film Noir to the North Face of The Slab as specified in the application. This section of the cliff has great climbing and has quickly become a destination onto itself in the Flatirons due to the high concentration of quality climbs. This route does not encroach on the adjacent lines.