Route Name: Fiddlesticks

Application Status: current

Application Cycle: current

Rock Formation: Fiddlehead

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 18

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.14-

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

This new route, Fiddlesticks, climbs out a previously unclimbed cave to a face to a hanging arete on the west face of Fiddlehead, by its northwest arête. It will be a long pitch (35 meters) estimated to be 5.14- in difficulty, with strenuous climbing along roughly 8 bolts up a leaning feature in the lower cave to a thin face on crimps to a long, bulging arete that forms the overhanging side of the edge of the formation.

Name Meaning:

The name refers to the G-rated epithet one says out of frustration, such as when accidentally striking one’s thumb with a hammer, and is also a play on words on the formation’s name, Fiddlehead.

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach follows the standard approach to the west/northwest side of Fiddlehead, branching north up the gully on talus and dirt just past the route Superfresh along the main Fern Canyon Trail.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent will be via lowering off a double-bolt anchor back into the talus that comprises the staging area.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the route/staging area is a flat talus zone in the bottom of the cave. There is no vegetation and very little soil.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

There is no way to safely toprope the climb, given its extremely overhanging, leaning nature, lack of natural gear, and the large talus blocks behind it. Some minor cleaning will need to take place along the edge of the leaning feature through the cave, with the removal of roughly an Igloo cooler’s worth of rock to get rid of a few loose portions. I would recommend putting permadraws on all the bolts through the cave, given its steep, traversing nature and the giant talus blocks behind, which present a real risk of swinging into if a climber made an error while cleaning their quickdraws. I think roughly 8 permadraws would be appropriate through here.

Any additional notes:

Not provided