Route Name: North Star

Application Status: current

Application Cycle: current

Rock Formation: Mickey Mouse

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 19

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 6

Route Difficulty:5.12

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

. Describe the proposed new route. What is the intention behind the recommended route name? The proposed route ascends the west side of the North Tower of the Mickey Mouse formation, left of all known existing routes. The route starts on P1 of the existing route “Eagle’s Bier” (or any of the existing routes that gain the same ledge), which ends at a large tree. Pitch 2 starts left of the tree at an independent bolted anchor, then heads up towards a crack system for about 115 ft to another ledge. Bolts will be placed sparingly here, only where good natural protection is not available. Pitch 3 goes up and then left on the overhanging face towards a right facing corner, which turns a roof and then goes back right on the face above. The pitch then goes up to a weakness on the right side of the massive roof, and finishes on a sloping ledge just right of the imposing roof. From here, climbers can scramble off the back of the formation towards the saddle between the North Tower and the Middle Tower to the established rappel line, rappel the route with a 70m rope, or continue up the 4th pitch to the summit. The 4th pitch will have 2 bolts, and then be primarily protected with natural protection, as it follows a hand / fist crack through a weakness to the top of the North Tower. If climbers continue to the summit, they must scramble off the back of the North Tower (about 5.0) towards the saddle between the North Tower and the Middle Tower, and rappel down the established rappel line with a single 70m rope.

Name Meaning:

The route name, North Star, refers to Polaris, a yellow supergiant located approximately 446 light-years away in the constellation Ursa Minor.

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach starts at Fowler trailhead and follows the well-established climber’s trail to Mickey Mouse wall. There is an established trail all the way to the base of Eagle’s Bier, where the proposed route starts.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Climbers can descend from the top of P3 by rappelling down to the P2 anchor with a 70m rope. From there they can rappel down to the P1 anchor, and then to the ground for a total of 3 rappels. Alternatively, from the summit, climbers can scramble down the east face towards the saddle between the North Tower and the Middle Tower, where an established rappel line exists. Three rappels with a single 70m will bring the climber to the ground.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the climb is solid rock and dirt.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Some of the route has been top roped, but due to the severe overhanging and traversing nature of the upper pitches, it has not been climbed in its entirety. The rock quality is solid.

Any additional notes:

This route will use natural protection where available, which is in character with existing routes on the cliff.