Route Name: Freedom

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2021

Rock Formation: The Matron

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 35

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 6

Route Difficulty:5.12+ or 5.13-

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route tackles the massive and untouched headwall at the West end of the South face of The Matron. The first pitch is essentially an approach pitch that climbs to the right of the existing Direct Start South Face. This pitch starts off easy but gets a bit steep and pumpy at the top. The pitch will be 5.10+ or 511- over ~30m of climbing, ending at a large ledge. In addition to accessing the proposed route, this pitch will provide a cleaner and better protected alternative to the aforementioned Direct Start as an entry point to the classic South Face route. Now the business… a 60m+ headwall that is slightly overhanging throughout and capped off with an overhanging roof finish. This section starts by climbing a corner into an arch feature, and then continues up a long face that has nice edges and surprisingly good rock. The final moves climb through a short overhanging feature. The headwall can be climbed in one or two pitches and will clock in at 5.12+ or 5.13-.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The route is approached from the South end of the Mesa Trail. A well established trail system leads to the final short section that follows the climber's trail to the base of the Matron.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent will be via lowering off the route.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area at the base of the climb is mostly rock, with some grasses.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The first pitch has been top-roped in its entirety. The second pitch has been thoroughly inspected on jumar, including inspection of all holds. However, the route is much too long and exposed to top-rope. The rock is of high quality and does not general require cleaning of flakey or loose rock, with the exception of one potentially loose rock in the middle of the headwall pitch that does require further inspection.

Any additional notes:

It's unbelievable that a feature of this size and significance has not been climbed… so excited! --- Additional (unmatched) --- P1: 12 lead bolts, 2 anchor boltsP2: 12 lead bolts, 2 anchor boltsP3: 11 lead bolts, 2 anchor bolts