Route Name: Pink Man’s Burden, 5.11

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2009

Rock Formation: Dinosaur Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 10

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 4

Route Difficulty:

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route (two pitches) is on the Southwest Face of Dinosaur Rock. It will climb a left-leaning traverse (5.9) on pitch one past four bolts and traditional gear to a double-bolt belay below an overhanging huecoed wall. The second pitch (5.11) will climb the huecoed wall past six bolts to a double-bolt anchor, from which you can rappel to the leaning slab below. The route has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. It is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection on both pitches. The route offers traditional gear only along some parts of pitch one, with no other traditional/natural gear placements otherwise on either pitch. The proposal, then, is to use four stainless-steel half-inch bolts (and the trad gear) plus a 2-bolt anchor on pitch one; and six stainless-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor on pitch two. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations. The route starts with a 5.9 corner to more 5.8/5.9 climbing on the left-diagonalling traverse. After much inspection, applicant determined the traverse was the best (most solid) way to access the headwall on pitch two, as the rock directly below pitch two, in the overhanging slot, is irredeemably friable. The second pitch is pumpy, featured, hueco'ed climbing (sustained 5.11) on a gently overhanging red/brown wall. The route offers sunny, exposed 5.11 climbing on a scenic feature high above Bear Canyon. Climbers will be able to, once completing the second pitch, scramble back out the slab and then circle back around Dinosaur Rock on Mallory Cave Trail to their packs. The staging area below pitch on is a rock ledge accessed by hiking/scrambling around the south side of Dinosaur Rock, on slabs, from the Mallory Cave Trail.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

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Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Not provided

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

From which you can rappel to the leaning slab below. Climbers will be able to, once completing the second pitch, scramble back out the slab and then circle back around Dinosaur Rock on Mallory Cave Trail to their packs.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area below pitch on is a rock ledge accessed by hiking/scrambling around the south side of Dinosaur Rock, on slabs, from the Mallory Cave Trail.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Not provided

Any additional notes:

Not provided